russian river Archives - Sonoma Magazine https://www.sonomamag.com/tag/russian-river/ Things to do in Sonoma County Fri, 08 Aug 2025 17:46:03 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.1 https://d1sve9khgp0cw0.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/smagicon-150x150.png russian river Archives - Sonoma Magazine https://www.sonomamag.com/tag/russian-river/ 32 32 Russian River and More: Best Sonoma County Breweries for First-Time Visitors https://www.sonomamag.com/best-sonoma-county-breweries/ Thu, 07 Aug 2025 17:45:39 +0000 http://www.sonomamag.com/?p=31147

Aug. 7 is National IPA Day! With a number of first-class beer venues to choose from, here are some of our favorite spots in Sonoma County.

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Beer has come a long way from the days when the only choices available were light or regular. In the past two decades, the flavors and styles on tap have grown into a booming industry that now satisfies patrons thirsty for fruity saisons, triple IPAs and barrel-aged sours. 

Craft beer, once a niche market for a community of homebrewers and beer aficionados, has spilled out across the nation in record numbers. As of 2024, there are over 9,700 breweries in the country creating unique and flavorful concoctions of hops, malt and yeast. 

Sonoma County, and Santa Rosa in particular, reigns supreme in this golden age of beer with riches in the form of world-renowned craft breweries. With an ever-growing number of first-class beer venues to choose from, it can be hard for beer-lovers to plan their Sonoma suds adventures. For first-time visitors wondering where to start, we present a sampling of our favorite local breweries below. Cheers! 

Will Poole, right, and his son Russ Poole enjoy some craft brews at HenHouse Brewing Company's tasting room in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Will Poole, right, and his son Russ Poole enjoy some craft brews at HenHouse Brewing Company’s tasting room in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

HenHouse Brewing Company, Santa Rosa/Petaluma

For beer aficionados, a handful of craft breweries make Sonoma County stand out – among them is HenHouse. HenHouse co-founders Collin McDonnell and Scott Goyne founded the brewery in 2012, and sold bottled beers exclusively at the Petaluma brewery. Four years later, they opened a Santa Rosa taproom; an industrial space featuring free popcorn and the Red Horse Pizza food truck out front.

Now in its 13th year, HenHouse continues to churn out the kind of ales, sours and stouts that attract beer snobs from near and far. Their HenHouse IPA and Chemtrails IPA are two of the best IPAs we’ve tried and the limited-release Big Chicken DIPA is one of the most sought after brews made in Sonoma County.

322 Bellevue Ave., Santa Rosa; 1333 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, henhousebrewing.com

Randall Behrens, front left, of Windsor, with Aaron Carpenter of Healdsburg, front right, toast with friends at Cooperage Brewing’s new location in downtown Santa Rosa, Friday, December 20, 2024. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Randall Behrens, front left, of Windsor, with Aaron Carpenter of Healdsburg, front right, toast with friends at Cooperage Brewing’s new location in downtown Santa Rosa, Friday, Dec. 20, 2024. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)

Cooperage Brewing Company, Santa Rosa 

Cooperage founder, head brewer and Orange County transplant, Tyler Smith has turned a decade of brewing in a garage into one of the premier craft breweries in one of the premier craft brewery locations in the world.

The brewery, located in an industrial warehouse, has become a favorite destination for beer enthusiasts looking for unique and well crafted pale ales — The Wyatt Terp is a must-try for IPA lovers. Cooperage also features food trucks for the hungry, a giant projector screen for sports fans and an arcade machine with joystick classics for those looking for some old-school fun. Just last year, Cooperage opened a second location in downtown Santa Rosa.

981 Airway Court, Suite G, and 575 Ross St., Santa Rosa, 707-293-9787, cooperagebrewing.com

Fraser Ross pours a beer for the Friday crowd at Fogbelt Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)
Fraser Ross pours a beer for the Friday crowd at Fogbelt Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)

Fogbelt Brewing Company, Santa Rosa/Healdsburg

Founded in 2013 by Paul Hawley and Remy Martin, Fogbelt Brewing Company is another reason why Santa Rosa is repeatedly named a top of craft beer destination. Like the name of the brewery, Fogbelt’s brews pay tribute to the North Coast — each flagship beer is named after a coastal redwood tree.

From the crisp Atlas Blonde Ale to the robust Armstrong Stout, beer flights connoisseurs will not be disappointed with what’s on tap. The brewery is also host to one of the best brewery kitchens we’ve encountered: try the fish tacos with pickled radish and chipotle crema. In 2022, the brewery opened Fogbelt Station in Healdsburg.

1305 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-978-3400; 410 Hudson St., Healdsburg, 707-473-8532, fogbeltbrewing.com

Customers enjoy craft brews, conversation and live music at Moonlight Brewing Company in Santa Rosa on Thursday, July 18, 2019. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Customers enjoy craft brews, conversation and live music at Moonlight Brewing Company in Santa Rosa on Thursday, July 18, 2019. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Moonlight Brewing Company, Santa Rosa

Moonlight head brewer Brian Hunt is old school. Hunt was crafting brews before there was even a craft beer industry, and his Moonlight Brewing became the first microbrewery in Santa Rosa when it opened in 1992.

The Moonlight brewery process relies on a no-frills approach: sight, smell and taste determine when a beer is ready and barley, grains and herbs make up the main ingredients. A sip on a Moonlight beer will bring you back to a time when the beer world was not dominated by hoppy IPAs; and the San Francisco-style, black lager “Death and Taxes” will make the previously pure join the dark side, for sure.

3350 Coffey Lane, Santa Rosa, 707-755-4951, moonlightbrewing.com

Southern California residents Daniel and Erin Anne Wegman at the Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Southern California residents Daniel and Erin Anne Wegman at the Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Russian River Brewing Company, Santa Rosa/Windsor

What is there to say that has not already been said about this Santa Rosa brewing behemoth? Russian River has won just about every beer award you can win, garnered worldwide fame and sent beer lovers into a February frenzy for the past 20 years with limited-release Pliny the Younger.

While the brewery’s hoppy Plinys (Younger and Elder) are definitely worth a try, the less intense, well-balanced and flavorful Blind Pig IPA should also be included on your beer bucket list. An added, and sometimes overlooked, bonus is the family-friendly atmosphere at the brewery (including a kids menu). But leave junior at home for the annual Pliny pilgrimage, no kid (and few adults) want to wait in line for hours.

725 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 700 Mitchell Lane, Windsor, 707-545-2337, russianriverbrewing.com

Iron Ox beer
Santa Rosa brewery Plow Brewing Co., changed its name to Iron Ox Brewing Co. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Iron Ox Brewing Company, Santa Rosa

Founder Kevin Robinson spent 10 years plowing through the beer and wine industry before he opened his own Santa Rosa brewery in 2015, originally called Plow Brewing Co. until changing the name to Iron Ox in 2020. While Iron Ox may not enjoy the kind of ballyhoo other breweries on this list do, that’s no loss to Robinson; as the brewery website states: “We are not ones to follow the trend or make beer for the masses. We make beer for us.”

Iron Ox brews without chemicals, extracts or finings (a compound agent added to beer to improve clarity or adjust flavor/aroma), making every beer vegan-friendly. The taproom is small and the intimate atmosphere makes this an ideal spot for escaping the crowds while relaxing with a cold one. Order the Sonoma Coast Pils and Steel Share IPA.

3334 Industrial Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-843-4583, ironoxbeer.com

The Shady Oak Barrel House in Santa Rosa on Friday, October 22, 2021. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The Shady Oak Barrel House in Santa Rosa on Friday, Oct. 22, 2021. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Shady Oak Barrel House, Santa Rosa

Calling themselves the “The Shady Bunch,” the team at Shady Oak is committed to fostering a family-like vibe at its taproom and beer garden while supporting the community. The brewery plays host to a variety of North Bay vendors, musicians and artists in its large indoor venue. Find an assortment of changing brews on tap, from hard seltzers to classic West Coast IPAs.

420 First St., Santa Rosa, 707-575-7687, shadyoakbrewing.com

Old Possum Brewing Co., Santa Rosa

Old Possum sources hops from Sonoma County farmers, so guests know they’re supporting local when they dine on barbecue from the kitchen and wash the meal down with a crushable IPA. Standout beers include the Interstellar Stout, Disturbance Pale Ale and Fresh Sonoma IPA.

357 Sutton Place, Santa Rosa, 707-303-7177, oldpossumbrewing.com

Lagunitas beer garden
Maryana Bustamonte serves up a round of samplers at the popular Lagunitas Taproom in Petaluma. (John Burgess / Sonoma Magazine)

Lagunitas Brewing Company, Petaluma

A North Bay staple for the past three decades, Lagunitas continues to impress beer aficionados by producing one-of-a-kind, boundary-pushing interpretations of traditional brews with heavy hitting flavor. Flagship classics include Little Sumpin’, Lagunitas Pils, Aunt Sally, Hop Stoopid and Brown Shugga. Lagunitas’ Petaluma location provides one of the best atmospheres to enjoy a beer with a live music venue, inviting outdoor patio, full kitchen, photo booth and gift shop.

1280 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-284-1020, lagunitas.com

Old Caz Beer
Canned beers from Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (Old Caz Beer)

Old Caz Beer, Rohnert Park

Just four months after opening a new brewpub in Rohnert Park’s SOMO Village, Old Caz Beer’s One Way IPA took second place at the prestigious Great American Beer Festival. If that isn’t enough reason to visit Old Caz, then its rotating lineup of stellar food trucks are sure to entice. The food trucks that frequent the brewpub include the Japanese-style Shokakko, pizza pop-up Gabacool Provisions and local brothers-owned Galvan’s Eatery. There’s nothing quite like washing down birria tacos with a crisp IPA.

1500 Valley House Drive, Suite 110, Rohnert Park, 707-665-6668, oldcaz.com

Fans of beer and trivia fill the seats on a Wednesday night at Parliament Brewing Company in Rohnert Park on February, 15, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Fans of beer and trivia fill the seats on a Wednesday night at Parliament Brewing Company in Rohnert Park on Feb., 15, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Parliament Brewing Company, Rohnert Park

This family-owned brewery, with beer master Justin Bosch at the helm, has a healthy mix of drafts on tap to match any taste. Some favorites include the crisp Mexican-style lager “Los Tecolotes,” the hazy IPA “Kaleidoscope” and the fruity sour “Berry Pie.” Find coveted local food trucks parked at Parliament every day, such as Shokkako, API Hot Chicken and War Pigs Craft Kitchen.

5865 Labath Ave., Suite 9, Rohnert Park, 707-776-6779, parliamentbrewing.com

Barrel Brothers Brewing Co. in Windsor have diversified their portfolio to include seltzer, non-alcohol beers, canned cocktails and a slushy beer named T.R.E.N.D.S. Photo taken on Wednesday, September 15, 2021. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Barrel Brothers Brewing Co. in Windsor have diversified their portfolio to include seltzer, nonalcohol beers, canned cocktails and a slushy beer named T.R.E.N.D.S. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat, 2021)

Barrel Brothers Brewing Company, Windsor

Barrel Brothers, like the name implies, is a family affair. The brewery was founded by brothers-in-law, Wesley Deal and Daniel Weber, and their father-in-law, Tom Sather in 2015. Considering themselves akin to alchemists, the family concocts magical potions from water, grain, hops and yeast. Their beers run the spectrum from light to dark. The “Blonde Voyage” Belgian ale makes for an ideal barbecue beverage, while the “Dark Sarcasm” porter is packed with chocolate, mocha and vanilla. Their “Naughty Hops” IPA is brewed with their revolutionary, ‘Hop Spanker’ technology. The Windsor tap room may be on the small side for some, but there are plenty of fresh beers on tap to enjoy.

9238 Old Redwood Highway, Suite 128, Windsor, barrelbrothersbrewing.com

CUVER Belgian Brewers, Windsor

Kids and pets are welcome at this Windsor brewery’s spacious patio while the adults sip citrusy lagers and rich ales. Among the top picks of brews here is the signature Pepperwood, a saison ale that won a gold medal in the 2024 California State Fair’s Commercial Craft Beer competition. Food trucks pull up to the taproom from 4-7 p.m. most Fridays.

7704 Bell Road, Suite A, Windsor, 707-687-0577, cuverbrewing.com

The beer menu is written on a large chalkboard behind the bar at Crooked Goat Brewing, in Sebastopol, on Wednesday, October 12, 2016. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
The beer menu is written on a large chalkboard behind the bar at Crooked Goat Brewing, in Sebastopol, on Wednesday, Oct. 12, 2016. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

Crooked Goat Brewing, Sebastopol/Petaluma

If you like to wet your whistle with some wheat brew, then Crooked Goat is the place for you. This Sebastopol brewery crafts unique wheat ales infused with flavors from honey, blackberries, raspberries — even bubblegum (featured in the aptly named “Bazooka Joe”). Crooked Goat also boasts a selection of hoppy, high ABV percentage IPAs, such as the West Coast-style “Ibex” and the apricot- and vanilla-infused “Foggy Notion” DIPA. Brewmaster Will Erickson and crew took Crooked Goat from a garage to the 10-barrel system taproom at The Barlow, winning The People’s Choice Award at the Santa Rosa Battle of the Brews in 2015. Crooked Goat opened a second taproom in Petaluma in 2022. This summer through Sept. 13, the Sebastopol location is hosting a free summer concert series every Saturday.

120 Morris St., Suite 120, Sebastopol, 707-827-3893; 110 Howard St., Petaluma, 707-559-5691, crookedgoatbrewing.com

Sonoma Spring Brewing Company, Sonoma

At Sonoma Springs Brewing Company, the only brewery located in the city of Sonoma, there’s an expansive lineup of California and German-style beers. In keeping with the craft beer trend, all Sonoma Springs brews have fun, catchy names: “Pacific Coast Hopway,” “Dreaming Out Loud,” and “Subliminal Gold IPA” are a few examples. With over 20 fresh beers on tap, there’s plenty to choose from at the taproom.

19449 Riverside Drive, Suite 101, Sonoma, 707-938-7422, sonomaspringsbrewing.com

Maci Martell contributed to this article.

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Guerneville Gets Spotlight in Wall Street Journal’s Summer Day Trips Guide https://www.sonomamag.com/guerneville-gets-spotlight-in-wall-street-journals-summer-day-trips-guide/ Thu, 24 Jul 2025 17:32:44 +0000 https://www.sonomamag.com/?p=127428 Johnson's Beach in Guerneville

The Wall Street Journal spotlight just confirms what Sonoma County already knows: Guerneville still has it.

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Johnson's Beach in Guerneville

Guerneville is no stranger to summer love, but this summer, the town earned national attention. On July 2, the Wall Street Journal featured Guerneville in a guide to top day trips from San Francisco, highlighting Johnson’s Beach and other laid-back attractions two hours north of the city.

Tucked beneath the redwoods and alongside the Russian River, Guerneville was praised for its natural beauty, wine tastings, LGBTQ+ culture and breezy vacation energy.

The article spotlighted Johnson’s Beach as the “riverside party,” where beachgoers sunbathe and soak in the summer scene.

Johnson’s Beach in Guerneville
Johnson’s Beach in Guerneville along the Russian River. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Canoes at Johnson's Beach in Guerneville
Canoes line Johnson’s Beach in Guerneville. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Johnson’s Beach has lured generations of summer visitors since the 1920s with its canoe rentals, cute cabins and an old-school snack bar. The beach’s relaxing environment makes it a go-to destination for Northern California families, day-trippers and anyone chasing a classic Sonoma County summer. 16215 First St., 707-869-2022, johnsonsbeach.com

The shoutout didn’t go unnoticed. The team at Johnson’s Beach shared their excitement in an Instagram post July 5, thanking travel writer Freda Moon for including the beach in her Wall Street Journal article.

This is not the first time the beach has made national headlines. In 2024, Travel + Leisure named Johnson’s California’s “coolest” beach, noting its retro summer camp vibes and family-friendly feel.

In addition to the beach, the Wall Street Journal called out several other destinations in Guerneville and the Russian River area. Here are the standouts:

Equality Vines

Equality Vines in Guerneville
Equality Vines co-founders Matt Grove, left, and Jim Obergefell at their tasting room in Guerneville, Thursday, July 13, 2023. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Equity Vines co-founder Jim Obergefell, left, talks with Daniel Potapshyn and Jenica Lancy, of the Golden West Chapter of The ALS Association, at his tasting room in Guerneville, Thursday, July 13, 2023. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Equity Vines co-founder Jim Obergefell, left, talks with Daniel Potapshyn and Jenica Lancy, of the Golden West Chapter of The ALS Association, at his tasting room in Guerneville, Thursday, July 13, 2023. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

The country’s first LGBTQ+ cause-based winery is a welcoming locale to go wine tasting on the weekend or to host private events such as staff celebrations or business development socials. “I think it’s massive for the community that we were mentioned,” said Matt Grove, co-founder of Equality Vines. “Because of all the construction in the community, we hope we get more foot traffic. So the culmination of being featured in this article is momentous for the community.” 16215 Main St., 877-379-4637, equalityvines.com

Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve

The powerful and captivating redwood grove is an attraction anyone can enjoy when looking to get away from crowds and the city featuring peaceful trails, a visitor center, an outdoor amphitheater, and picnic areas. 17000 Armstrong Woods Road, 707-869-2015, parks.ca.gov

Armstrong Woods in Guerneville
Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve in Guerneville. (Mariah Harkey / Sonoma County Tourism)
Korbel Champagne Cellars in Guerneville
Inside of the deli at Korbel Champagne Cellars in Guerneville. (North Bay Business Journal)

Korbel Champagne Cellars

The historic bubbly tasting house offers daily public tours and tastings. Chase the sweet California Champagne at the deli, Korbel Delicatessen and Market, with any market salad. 13250 River Road, 707-824-7000, korbel.com

Rainbow Cattle Company

The town’s iconic nightlife also got a mention, including this longtime gay saloon. The atmosphere inside the rustic interior is always flannel-friendly and judgment-free. “I’m just flattered that the Wall Street Journal mentioned us,” said co-owner Robert Frederick. 16220 Main St., 707-869-0206, queersteer.com

Parade watchers gather in front of the Rainbow Cattle Company during the Russian River Pride Parade and Festival in Guerneville, Saturday, Sept. 21, 2024. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Parade watchers gather in front of the Rainbow Cattle Company during the Russian River Pride Parade and Festival in Guerneville, Saturday, Sept. 21, 2024. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Auctioneer Nick Schwanz, center in hat, and his friends grab Champagne to celebrate raising more than  million for local charities over the past 20 years on Give Back Tuesdays, June 24, 2025, at the Rainbow Cattle Co. in Guerneville. (John Burgess / Press Democrat)
Auctioneer Nick Schwanz, center in hat, and his friends grab Champagne to celebrate raising more than $1 million for local charities over the past 20 years on Give Back Tuesdays, June 24, 2025, at the Rainbow Cattle Co. in Guerneville. (John Burgess / Press Democrat)
Keira Santamarina, 2, dances with her mother Rebecca Santamarina of Petaluma during the Rio Nido Roadhouse Surf Music Fest in Rio Nido on Saturday, July 16, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Keira Santamarina, 2, dances with her mother Rebecca Santamarina, of Petaluma, during the Rio Nido Roadhouse Surf Music Fest in Rio Nido in 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Rio Nido Roadhouse

By day, Rio Nido Roadhouse is buzzing with families enjoying the snack bar that offers kid-friendly bites while parents sip craft beers and cocktail specials outdoors. By night, it transforms into a lively redwood-stage venue playing country music, reggae, rock and more. 14540 Canyon 2 Road, Rio Nido, 707-869-0821, rionidoroadhouse

Pat’s International

This retro diner offers breakfast and lunch for anyone looking to relax and refuel before heading down to the river. Pat’s is known for its doughnuts and Korean fried chicken sandwiches. 16236 Main St., 707-604-4007, patsinternational.com

Pat's International Restaurant in Guerneville
Pat’s International Restaurant in Guerneville. (Courtesy of Joseph Ivan Jr.)
The bluffs above Goat Rock Beach in Jenner. (John Burgess)
Hiking the bluffs above Goat Rock Beach in Jenner. (John Burgess)

A short drive away — Sonoma Coast State Park and Goat Rock Beach

The dramatic Sonoma coastline is known for its harbor seal pups in late spring to mid summer and misty ocean views. A trip to the coast is a great way to get away from the inland heat during the summer. 3095 Highway 1, 707-875-3483, Bodega Bay, parks.ca.gov

With shout-outs from both Travel + Leisure and now the Wall Street Journal, Johnson’s Beach — and Guerneville as a whole — continues to find national attention. The spotlight just confirms what Sonoma County already knows: Guerneville still has it.

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Half Hitch Will Be Popping up at The River Electric All Summer Long https://www.sonomamag.com/half-hitch-will-be-popping-up-at-the-river-electric-all-summer-long/ Tue, 15 Jul 2025 20:53:23 +0000 https://www.sonomamag.com/?p=127182 Pork Bassam at Half Hitch

Known for its tauntingly delicious dinner pop-ups at The Casino in Bodega, Half Hitch will be cooking at the new River Electric all summer.

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Pork Bassam at Half Hitch

For more than a year, I’ve been wowed by chef Amelia Telc’s dinner pop-ups at The Casino in Bodega. Her menus are tauntingly delicious, with dishes like seared squid with Calabrian chile and green garlic, pork belly and ginger wonton soup, pot au feu, and chocolate mousse with poached prunes and cream.

Her resume includes buzzy restaurants you’ve definitely heard of in New York and San Francisco, and her globally inspired cooking is driven by what she finds at farmers markets and what’s just come in at the dock.

Half Hitch pop-up coming to The River Electric
Kimchi and tofu stew with enoki mushrooms and a duck egg at a Half Hitch pop-up at The Casino in Bodega. (Heather Irwin)

On Thursday nights this summer, she’s cooking at the new River Electric camp resort and swim club in Guerneville (16101 Neeley Road). Her a la carte menus change weekly, but a recent dinner included chicken Provençal, mussels in white wine, crispy new potatoes and a roasted plum sundae.

Access to the private club bar is $5 after 4 p.m., with dinner served from 6:30 to 9 p.m., first come, first served. Details at instagram.com/halfhitch_tomales.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

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A New Generation Is Bringing Its Own Funky Vibe to the Russian River https://www.sonomamag.com/a-new-generation-is-bringing-its-own-funky-vibe-to-the-russian-river/ Fri, 11 Jul 2025 17:02:52 +0000 https://www.sonomamag.com/?p=126985 Johnson’s Beach in Guerneville

At the heart of the Russian River, Guerneville — and surrounding towns — is in its glow-up era: new resorts, new restaurants, new retailers. Same familiar, bohemian soul.

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Johnson’s Beach in Guerneville

Endlessly flowing, the river has often been celebrated as a symbol of rebirth. From rural church baptisms and water-powered sawmills to songs (“Proud Mary”) and novels (“A River Runs Through It”), the river resonates as a source of renewal.

That same spirit of resurgence is alive and well this summer along the Russian River, with the launch of The River Electric glamping resort and swim club, and the much-anticipated debut of Guerneville Social Club later this fall. It’s the latest splash in a “new river scene” that started more than a decade ago when mortgage broker turned restaurateur and hotelier Crista Luedtke took a chance on Boon hotel + spa and Boon eat + drink, kickstarting an influx of local investment and new businesses that have swelled in recent years.

“I think people are really starting to catch on to how magical it is here, not only in the summer, but really year-round,” says Luedtke, who knows that no matter how much Guerneville and surrounding river towns might evolve, there will always be a “gritty bohemian funkiness” beneath the surface.

Russian River
A sunset view at Johnson’s Beach in Guerneville along the Russian River. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

It’s the reason Bonzo, a new Guerneville gift shop, sells sweatshirts with the slogan “Keeping it weird since 1850” beneath a silkscreened winged frog and a cluster of mushrooms with eyes. And it’s the reason corporate chain restaurants rarely venture into town — and those that do, like Subway, don’t survive. “We’re not ever gonna be a Healdsburg or an Aspen or a Sonoma town square,” Luedtke says. “We’re still funky, and we will always be funky. I mean, look at River Electric. As hip and groovy as it is, it’s still got its cool funkiness. They’re taking over what was once J’s Amusement Park.”

The River Electric
The campground at The River Electric in Guerneville. (Bess Friday)

On a tour of The River Electric a week before it opened, co-owner Kelsey Sheofsky showed off the resort’s new tent city beneath the redwoods (imagine an Ewok forest village with chic canvas tents) and made note of a tombstone — a vestige of Dr. Evil’s Haunted House that continued to scare locals every Halloween long after the amusement park went dark — that still needed to be removed.

Where once there was a Mad Mouse roller coaster and corner-hugging go-karts, a 12-acre resort has come to life as The River Electric, centered around a 60-foot circular pool accessible to overnight guests or with a $32 day pass. A sleek outdoor bar and restaurant serves upgraded smashburgers, turkey clubs, and Straus soft serve (and look for The River Electric canned wine collab with Ruth Lewandowski Wines). A block from the river, it’s a watering hole by day, with chaise lounge and cabana upgrades, and a glamping resort by night, all drenched in an Oakland hipster vibe — evidenced by the Instagram-bait payphone booth, restored and reprogrammed so that guests who pick up the receiver hear poetry recited in a voice reminiscent of Boris Karloff.

The River Electric
The reception area at The River Electric in Guerneville. The camp resort opened to the public Memorial Day weekend. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
The River Electric
Enjoying poolside treats at The River Electric in Guerneville. The sleek outdoor pool bar and restaurant serves upgraded smashburgers, turkey clubs, and Straus soft serve. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Sheofsky and her husband, Mike, made their name erecting luxury tent hotels in the middle of nowhere all over the country with their glamping production company, Shelter Co. Since founding it in 2011, they’ve staged elaborate off-the-grid weddings, hosted eclipse events for Virgin Galactic, and provided VIP tent experiences at BottleRock and Outside Lands music festivals. With The River Electric, they’re putting down roots and finding a permanent home for the brand. After buying the property in 2018, they’ve weathered seven years of permitting and floods to make it happen. “We filled the pool yesterday and I said, ‘This pool is half river water and half my tears,'” says Kelsey Sheofsky, who is very grateful for the river resurgence, giving respect and credit to Luedtke as the de facto “town mayor” of this unincorporated river community.

Just as there is a seasonal flow to the Russian River, a rolling way of life that runs between the highs of winter rains, when currents move fast, and the lows of lazy summer trickles, when paddlers have to portage kayaks to the next deep spot — there is also a generational flow through the decades.

In the 1850s, it was a logger’s paradise, better known as Stumptown. In the 1930s through the 1950s, it was a popular postcard summer escape for fogged-in San Francisco families. Big bands leaders Duke Ellington and Tommy Dorsey played the circuit from Forestville to Rio Nido to Guerneville and beyond. In the ’60s, hippies came to town, with the Grateful Dead playing the Dance Hall in Rio Nido. Then in the late ’70s and early ’80s, it became an LGBTQ+ haven, with gay entrepreneurs opening Fife’s Resort, Rainbow Cattle Company, and R3 Resort, eventually paving the way for Pride parades, Lazy Bear Week, and Women’s Weekend.

Solar Punk Farm
Nick Schwanz and Spencer Scott at their Solar Punk Farm in Guerneville. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

“I think this latest wave is not necessarily a reinvention, as much as it is just like the next generation,” says Nick Schwanz, the president of the Russian River Chamber of Commerce and co-owner of Solar Punk Farms. “A lot of young people are coming up to Guerneville for the same reason that people have always come up to Guerneville — because it’s absolutely gorgeous.”

If Forestville is the gateway from the east and, winding along River Road, Monte Rio and Duncans Mills are the trailing lower-river towns that give way to the coast, then it makes sense that Guerneville is the epicenter, where much of the new scene is taking hold. When historians look back one day at the urban flight and migratory effects of Covid on small towns across America, this former logging town will be the perfect case study.

The Sheofskys had already planned their escape from San Francisco to Sebastopol when the pandemic hit in 2020, just two days after their kids started at new schools. Among that same wave of transplants is Michael Rex, a former ESL teacher in San Francisco who moved to Guerneville during the pandemic.

Russian River Books & Letters
Michael Rex, owner of Russian River Books & Letters in Guerneville. Rex, a former ESL teacher, moved to Guerneville during the pandemic. (Russian River Books & Letters)

Lured by a “For Rent” sign in the window, he opened Russian River Books & Letters in an alcove beside Coffee Bazaar café. He has filled the charming book nook with a wide range of literature and sprinkled in vintage typewriters that customers can use to type poems or letters. An acoustic guitar sits in the corner, waiting for anyone who wants to strum it. Along with author readings, the bookstore hosts live musical performances, and there’s a Hanukkah concert every year.

Since opening in 2021, Rex has learned a lot about locals by the books they order. “It’s very eclectic. You have fly fishermen and hunters, and then you have drag queens and bikers and bicyclists,” he says. “Somebody said that Guerneville is the queerest rural town in America, and it’s probably true.”

There’s a special section in the bookstore curated by Solar Punk Farms, whose owners, Schwanz and his husband Spencer Scott, also repaired to the river from San Francisco during the pandemic. Converting a former horse property on Armstrong Woods Road into a “queer-run regenerative land project,” they’re harvesting their first crops this year, supplying local restaurants in town. But they’ve created more than a farm. Having recently hired an events manager, they’re planning concerts, farm tours, volunteer weekends, and an “upcycled fashion festival.”

Nick Schwanz and Spencer Scott were married on the farm two summers ago. Their front porch is a gathering space for friends and family. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Solar Punk Farm owners Nick Schwanz and Spencer Scott were married on the farm two summers ago. Their front porch is a gathering space for friends and family. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Across the street from the bookstore, Hair and Heavy Metal Salon boasts the largest concentration of ’80s hair band posters (Dio, Motley Crue, Whitesnake) along the river. In 2023, owner Donnelle Malnik moved to Guerneville, calling it “the freakiest spot I could find catapulting out of San Francisco.” Around the corner on Main Street, El Barrio mezcal lounge is always hopping on summer nights. It features a three-page cocktail list and a closet-sized kitchen where they make their own tortillas. Like other big-city expats, owner Jimmy Kansau blew into town during the pandemic with his husband.

“In the summer, everybody’s in a good mood,” Kansau says. “Everybody wants to have a party. So it’s a constant influx of people in and out. Some people come here with their bathing suits and their hats, and other people come dressed up, because they just feel like dressing up. It’s a juxtaposition of amazing things, for sure.”

Margarita at El Barrio in Guerneville, California
Margarita from El Barrio in Guerneville. Jimmy Kansau purchased the mezcal lounge from Crista Luedtke four years ago. (Kelly Pulieo)

Four years ago, the Venezuela native bought El Barrio from Luedtke. This fall, he’s planning to open Guerneville Social Club near R3 Hotel at Mill and Fourth streets in the former Timberline Restaurant. His vision is a market hall concept with downstairs storefronts that might include a bakery, coffee shop, and taproom, with a beer garden out back. The upstairs event hall will be the main attraction, he says, the scene of “ridiculous weekend brunches” in the restaurant, along with cooking classes and wellness activities. As a social club there will be a yearly membership of around $200 a year.

With so much investment coming from newcomers, it’s not surprising to hear the word “gentrification” pop up in local conversation. It’s one of the reasons The River Electric is hosting “Local Tuesdays” with $5 entrance fee and lower-priced menu options “so you can really come in and have lunch and swim for under 20 bucks,” says Kelsey Sheofsky.

When Saucy Mama’s Jook Joint owner Yvette Bidegain says, “This isn’t the same Guerneville that was here when I grew up. This is a totally different town,” she means it in a good way. Bidegain grew up in the Hacienda community east of town, near Forestville. Her father ran the Richardson’s Ribs booth at the Sonoma County Fair, serving gumbo and ribs from recipes he learned growing up in Louisiana. It proved so popular they eventually opened three restaurants. Bidegain used vacation time from her job at CalTrans to help out with the business.

Yvette Bidegain, owner of Saucy Mama's, at the Guerneville barbecue spot June 12, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Yvette Bidegain, owner of Saucy Mama’s, at the Guerneville barbecue spot. Back in the day, her father ran the Richardson’s Ribs booth at the Sonoma County Fair. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Saucy Mama's in Guerneville on June 12, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Saucy Mama’s Jook Joint in Guerneville. Yvette Bidegain opened the barbecue spot in 2022. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

In 2017, she started doing pop-up soul food once a week, gaining a devoted following selling Southern food and barbecue at Johnson’s Beach during the pandemic summers. Since she opened Saucy Mama’s in 2022 west of downtown, the biggest seller has been the catfish and fried okra, inspiring one of her friends to call her “the Colonel Sanders of catfish.” The ribs, cooked out back in a Texas smoker with her father’s secret recipe, come in a close second. Ebbing and flowing over the years, the Russian River seems to have found a new rhythm, she says. “I’m a person who likes change — change is good. No one expects to find a soul food restaurant in Guerneville, and they tell us that all the time.”

Now, at the peak of the summer season, as tourists from around the Bay Area and California discover — or rediscover — the winding ribbon of water that rolls through the redwoods, it’s a chance for a new generation of business owners to learn to work together in solidarity. “Anytime there’s a new business that comes to town, it’s not about like, ’Oh man, there’s competition.’ No, it’s like, more begets more,” says Luedtke. “I come from an abundance model, where I feel like there’s enough for everyone. New people coming to town is an opportunity for us all to shine our shoes and make sure that we’re not getting complacent and lazy.”

Small Town Gems

Forestville

Burke's for canoe trips on the river
Burke’s Canoe Trips has provided canoe rentals for generations of river-goers. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Burke’s Canoe Trips: Countless thousands have dropped in here for the epic summer rite of passage: paddling the 10-mile span of the Russian River from Forestville to Guerneville.

Along the way, you can stop off at sandbars and beaches for picnics and swimming. Keep an eye out for wildlife such as great blue herons, river otter, osprey, and turtles. And make sure you chat up owner Linda Burke, whose family has been renting boats since the late 1950s, back when Burke’s Resort had a roller rink, arcade, and nightclub that staged everyone from Tommy Dorsey to Duke Ellington. Rates: $95 canoes/$60 kayaks, with complimentary shuttle pickup. 707-887-1222, burkescanoetrips.com

Canoes by the Russian River
Canoes line Johnson’s Beach in Guerneville. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

River Shuttle: Summer parking can be a nightmare at many of the beautiful regional park beaches along the river, especially later in the day. Hot tip: Hop on the Sonoma County Regional Parks River Shuttle, departing every 30 minutes from El Molino High School, 7050 Covey Road, Forestville. The shuttle runs 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. weekends and holidays from Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day, stopping at Steelhead Beach Regional Park and Sunset Beach River Park. Buy $5 advance passes: parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov/visit/regional-parks-river-shuttle

Also, one of the best river hangouts is at the wide sandy beach at Mom’s Beach, just past Burke’s Canoe and Steelhead Beach, at 10584 River Drive. Make sure you get there early (park opens at 7 a.m. and there are only 17 spots), park in the corner lot, just off River Road, and take the trail down to the water.

Mushroom Mycopia pizza at Sonoma Pizza Co. in Forestville. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Mushroom Mycopia pizza at Sonoma Pizza Co. in Forestville. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

Sonoma Pizza Co.: If you’re looking for picnic supplies in town, this seasonal gourmet pizza joint poses a tough choice between the wood-fired Pepperoni Nirvana pie, prepared Chris’s Way with hot honey and ricotta, and the Italian Stallion sandwich. 6615 Front St. 707-820-1031, sonomapizzaco.com

Rio Nido

Keira Santamarina, 2, dances with her mother Rebecca Santamarina of Petaluma during the Rio Nido Roadhouse Surf Music Fest in Rio Nido on Saturday, July 16, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Rio Nido Roadhouse has long been a popular venue for live music. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Rio Nido Roadhouse: There may be no better venue to see live music near the river than this classic roadhouse. It’s the reason Chuck Prophet keeps returning for his Summertime Thing festival. It’s where Count Basie and Harry James played during the 1930s and ’40s, and where The Beach Boys and the Grateful Dead plugged in during the ’60s. And it’s the reason why most locals show up any night no matter who’s on the bill. 14540 Canyon 2 Road. 707-869-0821, rionidoroadhouse.com

Guerneville

Things to do

The River Electric: Located on 12 acres, about a block from the river, this brand-new swim club and glamping resort features two pools to cool off on a hot summer day — a 60-foot round pool and the smaller, rectangular Little Dipper. Swim club day passes are $32, with upgrades for chaise lounges and cabanas. Pool bar snacks range from smashburgers, “River Rat” fries (loaded with pimento cheese), and root beer floats to ceviche and local wines. Pool and restaurant are open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. 16101 Neeley Road. 707-937-8915, theriverelectric.com

River Electric
The River Electric’s poolside bar in Guerneville. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
"River Rat" fries from The River Electric
“River Rat” Loaded Fries (with pimento cheese, potato chip crumble, creme fraiche and scallions) at The River Electric in Guerneville. (Bess Friday)

Johnson’s Beach: Rent a kayak, a beach umbrella, or a cabin and chill at one of the most famous bends in the river. Siblings Ethan, Alison, and Andrew Joseph took over in 2022 and are updating what founders Ernie and Gertie Johnson started a century earlier in 1918. 16215 First St. 707-869-2022, johnsonsbeach.com

Solar Punk Farms: Touted as a “queer-run regenerative hub,” this former horse arena has been reborn as a climate think-tank, demonstration area, and working farm all rolled into one. Look for a MORF (Music on Regenerative Farms) concert on July 12. Later this year, they’re creating “Wine and Wander” experiences that combine farm tours with wine tasting, and also volunteer work and play weekends. 15015 Armstrong Woods Road. solarpunkfarms.com

Solar Punk Farms in Guerneville by the Russian River
Nick Schwanz and Spencer Scott see their project as an important step in helping others engage with climate advocacy. That’s why outreach is such an important part of their work, including community work parties and demonstration gardens. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Equality Vines co-founders Matt Grove, left, and Jim Obergefell at their tasting room in Guerneville, Thursday, July 13, 2023. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Equality Vines co-founders Matt Grove, left, and Jim Obergefell at their tasting room in Guerneville. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

Equality Vines: Founders Matt Grove and Jim Obergefell combine their love of winemaking with an undying fight for equal rights in this eclectic tasting room. Since releasing their first wines (with names like Rosé the Riveter and 19th Amendment Sauvignon Blanc), they have donated nearly $300,000 to nonprofits and equality organizations. 16215 Main St. 877-379-4637, equalityvines.com

Porter-Bass Winery: “We do our tastings outside under our walnut tree,” says winemaker Lance Bass. “It’s a fairly intimate setting, with a beautiful view of the vineyard and the forest around us.” When his parents bought the 17-acre vineyard in 1980, it was run-down with old, unhealthy Palamino and Zinfandel vines. Today, it’s thriving with organically farmed Chardonnay and Zinfandel. Tastings by appointment only. $25 per person, fee waived with purchase of wine. 11750 Mays Canyon Road. 707-869-1475, porter-bass.com

Pond Farm by Russian River
Marguerite Wildenhain works on her pottery wheel at Pond Farm in Sonoma County. (Otto Hagel / Stewards of the Coast and Redwoods)

Pond Farm Pottery: Master potter Marguerite Wildenhain put this renowned ceramics studio and artist colony on the map back in the 1940s and ‘50s. Now a designated National Historic Landmark located in the Austin Creek State Recreation Area, it hosts a new artist residency program and docent-led tours for $25 per person the third Saturday from March-October. Reserve spots at pondfarm.org. 17000 Armstrong Woods Road, 707-869-9177

Shopping

Guerneville Wine Collective: This newly opened wine nook takes over where previous Wine Vault owners left off, adding trendy imported tinned fish from Spain and Portugal to the mix. “Our idea is that people can come and grab some pickled veggies, tinned fish, some crisps, a bottle of wine and then go to the river and have a picnic,” says owner Karla Garcia. She opened the wine shop next to Nimble & Finn’s ice cream in the historic Guerneville Bank Club building in May. 16290 Main St., Instagram.com/guernevillewinecollective

Bonzo: Run by husband-and-wife team Eric Gonzales and Beth Miles, this funky clothing and gift shop is the place to go for all things Guerneville-branded, such as river-centric “I Choose the Bear” or Samsquanch T-shirts, “Gville” hats, and “Keeping it Weird Since 1950” hoodies. 14016 Armstrong Woods Road, thebonzo.com

Places to eat
 Boon Eat + Drink in Guerneville near Russian River
Flash-fried Brussels sprouts at Boon Eat + Drink in Guerneville. (Boon Eat + Drink)

Boon eat + drink: The much-buzzed-about restaurant that helped put Guerneville on the map when chef Crista Luedtke opened in 2009 still garners rave reviews more than 15 years later. The focus is on seasonal, farm-to-table comfort food, so it’s no surprise the flash-fried Brussels sprouts are still the most popular dish, Luedtke says, adding that “the mac ‘n’ cheese is still going strong.” This time of year, look for “blistered tomatoes, seasonal peaches, basil, and really fresh summer vibes on halibut,” she says. No reservations. 16248 Main St. 707-869-0780, eatatboon.com

Road Trip: Chef Crista Luedtke’s latest offering is an ode to her globe-trotting foodie travels and childhood favorites. Look for Mexican street corn salad daily and Thai-style pork Benedict with crispy rice cakes and a Thai hollandaise sauce on the weekend brunch menu. Two of the most popular items are the Free Bird and The Mac Daddy. “Don’t call me out here, but I love a Big Mac and this is my version,” says Luedtke, who makes her own secret sauce. 16218 Main St. 707-604-6102, eatatroadtrip.com

Road Trip in Guerneville near the Russian River
The Mac Daddy burger with a 7-ounce Oak Ridge patty and secret sauce from Road Trip in Guerneville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
New England Style Crab Roll with Dungeness crab salad, gem lettuce, house pickles on house baked brioche bun from Trillium Winebar & Taproom Friday, February 28, 2025, on Main Street in Guerneville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
New England-style crab roll from Trillium Winebar & Taproom on Main Street in Guerneville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Trillium: The petite 12-seat marble-counter raw bar is the main attraction at this forest-flower-inspired café and lounge run by chef Greg Barnes and wine geek Genevieve Payne. Come for the super-fresh oysters, poke, crudos, and ceviche — but don’t miss the crab roll. And good luck narrowing it down to a glass on the nearly bottomless wine list. 16222 Main St. 707-604-5750, trillium.bar

Saucy Mama’s Jook Joint: Owner Yvette Bidegain has taken her Louisiana family’s recipes and love of Southern cuisine and soul food to another level with the ever-popular fried catfish and her father’s secret-spiced ribs that premiered decades ago to long lines at the Richardson’s Ribs booth at the Sonoma County Fair. From collard greens to sweet potato pie, there’s even something for vegetarians — behold the deep-fried tofu po’boy. 16632 Highway 116. 707-604-7184, saucymamasjookjoint.com

Black-eyed peas at Saucy Mama’s, the Guerneville barbecue spot, June 12, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Black-eyed peas at Saucy Mama’s Jook Joint, the Guerneville barbecue spot. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Lavender honeycomb ice cream at Nimble & Finn's Ice Cream in Guerneville. (Nimble & Finn's)
Lavender honeycomb ice cream at Nimble & Finn’s in Guerneville. (Nimble & Finn’s)

Nimble & Finn’s: Year after year, the most popular flavor at this boutique handmade ice cream shop is lavender honeycomb. But it really depends on what’s in season. Two sisters, Leandra and Jazmin, started with a pushcart freezer at farmers markets, and now make a wide range of flavors from Earl Grey blackberry to toasted coconut date shake. Located inside the historic Guerneville Bank Club building (next to the Wine Collective). Tip: Don’t miss the cool photo booth in the old bank vault behind the counter. 16290 Main St. 707-666-9411, nimbleandfinns.com

Piknik Town Market: First thing to know is, yes, the new owner, Margaret Van der Veen, is still serving the famous biscuits that once made Oprah’s holiday list of “Favorite Things” when the same venue was known as Big Bottom Market. Now the motto is “same biscuit, different basket.” It’s the perfect pop-in spot to grab a breakfast burrito in the morning or a Headlands Hiker sando (beetroot hummus, mixed greens, topped off with pickled cucumber-cashew kale pesto on a ciabatta roll) in the afternoon. 16228 Main St. 707-604-7295, pikniktownmarket.com

El Barrio: One of the tastiest cocktails at this popular mezcal lounge is known as El Patron, named after owner Jimmy Kansau, “because, well, I’m the boss,” he says. Close your eyes and you’ll swear it’s a Mexican Negroni. In addition to handmade tortillas and birria tacos, don’t get Kansau started on the L.A.-style vegetarian tacos with roasted-curry cauliflower, pine nuts, olives, and dates. “It’s kind of like an amalgamation of cultures with this amazing habanero salsa,” he says. “It’s to die for.” 16230 Main St. 707-604-7601, elbarriobar.com

El Barrio
A cocktail from El Barrio in Guerneville. One of the tastiest cocktails at this popular mezcal lounge is known as El Patron. (El Barrio)
Baked and toasted French toast with strawberry sauce and vanilla cream with a plant-based protein smoothie from Baked on the River in Guerneville, Friday, Jan. 5, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Baked and toasted French toast with strawberry sauce and vanilla cream from Baked on the River in Guerneville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Baked on the River: Helena Gustavsson Giesea’s popular Guerneville café reopened this spring at the R3 Hotel, serving dinner plus brunch and a barbecue lunch on weekends. 16390 Fourth St. 707865-6060, bakedontheriver.com

Places to stay

The River Electric: In addition to the swim club, this glamping resort offers overnight stays in 40 tents. They’re decked out with king-size beds, electricity, and Wi-Fi, tucked away like a luxurious summer camp in the shade of a redwood forest that runs up against the meadow and pool. 16101 Neeley Road. 707-937-8915, theriverelectric.com

The River Electric
A double tent at The River Electric in Guerneville. (Bess Friday)
A redone cabin at luxury Dawn Ranch in Guerneville
A guest cottage at Dawn Ranch in Guerneville. (Gentl & Hyers / Dawn Ranch)

Dawn Ranch: This 22-acre spread of chalets, cabins, cottages, bungalows, and tents is an intimate natural river paradise. Chefs Juliana Thorpe and Ignacio Zuzulich spin local produce and seasonal ingredients with a Brazilian, Argentinian, and European twist. Dawn Ranch is also home to the annual Cosmico music festival where the theme is “music is love.” 16467 Highway 116. 707-869-0656, dawnranch.com

The Stavrand: Roll out of bed to a plate of crab Benedict and a flight of mimosas at this off-the-beaten-path hideaway in Pocket Canyon, across the bridge and down the road from The River Electric. Owners Sam and Emily Glick (previously the general manager at the Kimpton Buchanan in San Francisco) bought the former Applewood Inn and turned it into a luxury boutique gem. 13555 Highway 116. 707-869-9093, thestavrand.com

At The Stavrand in Guerneville. (Emma K Creative)
At The Stavrand in Guerneville. (Emma K Creative)
Sip on a cocktail or a glass of Sonoma wine from the Honor Bar at Boon Hotel + Spa in Guerneville. (Boon Hotel + Spa)
Sip on a cocktail or a glass of wine from the Honor Bar at boon hotel + spa in Guerneville. (Boon Hotel + Spa)

Boon hotel + spa and The Highlands: “I like to call Boon sort of like Palm Springs meets the redwoods. It’s kind of got that mid-century vibe,” says Crista Luedtke, owner of both resorts. “And then Highlands is more like an adult summer camp. A little bit moody, a little bit more like a writer’s retreat.” Take your pick, both have recently been remodeled.

Boon: 14-room boutique hotel with a spa that offers Swedish, deep-tissue, and therapeutic massages, ranging from $145-$215. 14711 Armstrong Woods Road. 707-869-2721, boonhotels.com

The Highlands: Up the hill from Johnson’s Beach, this quirky getaway features rooms, cabins, and Coyote Camp tents. Note to old-timers: The pool is no longer clothing optional like the previous incarnation as Highland Park Lodge. 14000 Woodland Drive. 707-869-0333, highlandsresort.com

AutoCamp: Picture a big campground and lawn nestled among the redwoods west of downtown Guerneville. It’s loaded with 31-foot Airstreams, glamping tents, tiny homes, and the 42-square-foot Happier Camper for a more minimalist stay. Grill out on private outdoor fire pits. The general store is open until 10 p.m. And did we mention complimentary granola? 14120 Old Cazadero Road. autocamp.com/location/russian-river

AutoCamp near Guerneville along the Russian River
AutoCamp’s luxury tent and patio site near Guerneville along the Russian River in Sonoma County. (Madison Kotack / for Mesa Lane Partners)
Mine + Farm in Guerneville
Relax around the firepit at Mine + Farm in Guerneville. (Mine + Farm)

Mine + Farm: A B&B for cannabis lovers (and beer and wine lovers), this nine-room renovated ranch-house inn grows its own weed. It means guests can toke pre-rolls anywhere from the hot tub to the ping-pong table, or they can dig into special Elevated Experience dinners with cannabis as a featured ingredient. Owners Bryce Skolfield and Suzanne Szostak also cultivate fruit trees, a garden, and chickens on the 3-acre property around the corner from Korbel Winery. 12850 River Road. 707-869-4466, mineandfarm.com

Monte Rio

Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen: Not far from the Monte Rio skate park, this river café with a Middle Eastern twist serves up everything from shakshuka and coconut curry to baklava cream pies and chocolate peanut butter cream pie. And Lightwave might have the raddest T-shirts of any café down by the river, featuring a hand-drawn design with skull and skateboard and gramophone. 9725 Main St. 707-865-5169, lightwavecafe.square.site

Co-owner Gal Ginzburg will take your order among the antique radios at the Lightwave Cafe at Creekside Park in Monte Rio. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Co-owner Gal Ginzburg takes orders among the antique radios at Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen in Monte Rio. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Monte Rio Beach on the Russian River
The Big Rocky Games at Monte Rio Beach includes sack races, rock skipping and ice cream eating contests. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Monte Rio Beach: The largest public beach on the lower Russian River offers kayak rentals, soft-serve ice cream, a boat launch, and a dog-friendly area. Tip: There is no better slice of small-rivertown Americana than this beach packed elbow-to-elbow on the Fourth of July for the boat parade and Big Rocky Games. mrrpd.org/monte-rio-beach

Duncans Mills

Gold Coast Coffee and Bakery: Morning pastries and coffee are the go-to wake-up call at this quaint Duncans Mills café. But owner Patrick Parks has also carved out a well-curated musical scene as of late, staging local favorites like Eric Lindell and Sol Horizon, paired with wood-fired pizzas and tasty locally crafted brews. 25377 Steelhead Blvd. 707-865-1441, goldcoastcoffeebakery.com

The post A New Generation Is Bringing Its Own Funky Vibe to the Russian River appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

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Peek Inside The River Electric, a New Camp Resort and Swim Club in Guerneville https://www.sonomamag.com/peek-inside-the-river-electric-a-new-camp-resort-and-swim-club-in-guerneville/ Mon, 07 Jul 2025 19:21:00 +0000 https://www.sonomamag.com/?p=126666 The River Electric property in Guerneville

In a nod to sunshine-filled, worry-free days of summer camp, Guerneville's new camping resort boasts two pools, a restaurant and 40 furnished tents under the redwoods.

The post Peek Inside The River Electric, a New Camp Resort and Swim Club in Guerneville appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

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The River Electric property in Guerneville

Just in time for summer, there’s a new way to make a splash in Guerneville.

The River Electric —  a camp resort, swim club and event venue —  opened to the public Memorial Day weekend. Less than a five-minute walk from downtown Guerneville, it features two pools, a restaurant and 40 furnished tents.

The River Electric in Guerneville
A king tent at The River Electric in Guerneville. Each canvas tent includes a screened door and windows that allow air flow. (Bess Friday)

“We’re trying our hardest to get away from the glamping term. It just feels dated,” said Maggie Wilson, creative director at The River Electric. “We operate as a hotel. This is not DIY camping.”

There are a few different ways to enjoy the camp resort. Guests can lounge by the pools for the day, spend the night in a tent or book a private event, such as a wedding.

Poolside leisure

For those solely interested in swimming, pool day passes start at $35 and include a towel and portable lounge chair to rest on the lawn. The main, 60-foot round pool is arguably the heart of the property. There’s also a smaller, rectangular adults-only pool. Day guests are welcome to splash about from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Housemade potato chips with green goddess dressing at The River Electric in Guerneville. (Bess Friday)
Housemade potato chips with green goddess dressing at The River Electric in Guerneville. (Bess Friday)

Exclusively for resort guests, the Pool Bar is open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. While the menu is relatively small, it’s impressively creative. Snack on housemade potato chips with pimento cheese or green goddess dressing, or splurge for The Tackle Box: a photogenic spread of Kaluga caviar, smoked trout roe, chives, creme fraiche and more housemade potato chips. No outside food is permitted on the property.

More than glamping

The River Electric in Guerneville
The campground at The River Electric in Guerneville. (Bess Friday)

Tucked below redwood trees, tents are equipped with all the necessities for a comfortable night’s rest. Beds are topped with down comforters, area rugs line the floor and there’s electricity for charging all the electronics we can’t seem to travel without these days. Tents are available with one king bed or two double beds. A communal restroom and bathhouse is located between the pool area and the campground.

The vanity area in the bathhouse at The River Electric in Guerneville. (Bess Friday)
The vanity area in the bathhouse at The River Electric in Guerneville. (Bess Friday)

Thoughtful design

The nods to mid-century design are strong, as is the homage to sunshine-filled, worry-free days of summer camp. But take a closer look, and perhaps the most important design component reveals itself. Everything on the property — from the use of concrete to electric outlets that can handle being submerged for extended lengths of time — was chosen because of its ability to endure Guerneville’s winters and the site’s floodplain location.

“We’re planning for the worst, and we built for the worst,” said co-owner Kelsey Sheofsky. “Everything comes out, gets stored off-site, and then it can flood.”

While packing up and moving practically everything on the property each fall may seem like an exhausting endeavor to most, it’s second nature to the team behind The River Electric, who also owns and operates event production company Shelter Co. The Guerneville resort essentially creates a permanent home for what the Sonoma County-based group has been doing across the country for more than a decade.

The Pool Bar at The River Electric in Guerneville. (Bess Friday)
The Pool Bar at The River Electric in Guerneville. (Bess Friday)
Drone shot of the main pool at The River Electric
The main pool at The River Electric in Guerneville. (Bess Friday)

Local perks and prices

Every Tuesday, residents of lower Russian River towns that border the river from Forestville to Jenner can enjoy the pools for just $5. When capacity allows, Sunday through Thursday, residents from throughout Sonoma County are invited to swim from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. for $5. It’s recommended to call ahead to ensure there’s room before making the trip.

Rates for tent accommodations at The River Electric start at $325. A stay includes a continental breakfast, featuring yogurt, granola, fruit and biscuits from nearby Piknik Town Market. Follow @riverelectric on Instagram for the latest on special events, such as pop-up dinners.

16101 Neeley Road, Guerneville, 707-937-8915, theriverelectric.com

The post Peek Inside The River Electric, a New Camp Resort and Swim Club in Guerneville appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

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Historic Kellogg House by Renowned Architect John Hans Ostwald Up for Sale on the Russian River https://www.sonomamag.com/historic-kellogg-house-by-renowned-architect-john-hans-ostwald-up-for-sale-on-the-russian-river/ Mon, 23 Jun 2025 20:00:06 +0000 https://www.sonomamag.com/?p=126391 Pool and patio

Originally commissioned by the Kellogg family, the circa-1947 home designed by Bay Area architect John Hans Ostwald was praised in Arts & Architecture Magazine.

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Pool and patio

A circa-1947 modern home on 1.2 private acres in Forestville is currently listed for $1,595,000. The three-bedroom, two-bathroom, 2,414 square-foot dwelling was originally commissioned by the Kellogg family and is the work of notable architect John Hans Ostwald.

The home exemplifies the Swiss chalet-meets-modernism style of Berlin-born Ostwald, who received his degree in architecture in Zurich. Sleek modern lines and repeating windows are warmed up with stained-wood walls and the intentional cozy connection to the woodsy outdoors.

A 1950 publication of Arts & Architecture praised the home for its u-shaped layout that shelters the pool and terrace and frames nature views.

Patio at Kellogg House home
Pool and patio at the historic Kellogg House in Forestville. (Darren Loveland)
Kitchen in Kellogg House home
Kitchen in the Kellogg House. (Darren Loveland)

The current owners have thoughtfully updated the vintage space. The kitchen and primary bath enjoy new natural stone, cabinets and fixtures that brighten but blend with the original warm finishes. 

Other updated amenities include a pool and spa, solar power and EV charging.

For more information on the Kellogg House at 11630 River Road, contact listing agents Tom Doran, 415-860-5138, or Jeannie Vandeweg, 707-480-1541, Vanguard Properties, timelessmidcentury.com

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Baked on the River Reopening Soon in Guerneville https://www.sonomamag.com/baked-on-the-river-reopening-soon-in-guerneville/ Thu, 15 May 2025 15:20:17 +0000 https://www.sonomamag.com/?p=125247

The popular Guerneville café will reopen this spring. Check out when and where the Russian River bakery is set to open.

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Helena Gustavsson Giesea’s popular Guerneville café will reopen May 30 at the R3 Hotel (16390 Fourth St.), less than a mile from her previous location.

The Swedish-born chef was forced to close her bakery last December after plans for another location fell through.

Baked on the River scones and gravy
Groovy Sconed and Gravy, with a bacon Cheddar scone and a creamy gravy from Baked on the River in Guerneville, Friday, Jan. 5, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Baked on the River opened in 2018 with a pastry-focused menu, and added breakfast, brunch and lunch entrées soon after. Giesea’s restaurant replaces R3’s Rio Cafe.

16390 Fourth St., Guerneville, 707-865-6060, bakedontheriver.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

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Sonoma County Spots Among Best Places To Go Glamping, According To Travel + Leisure https://www.sonomamag.com/sonoma-county-spots-among-best-places-to-go-glamping-according-to-travel-leisure/ Wed, 07 May 2025 23:10:15 +0000 https://www.sonomamag.com/?p=123138

Out of all the glamping spots in the county, here’s where Travel + Leisure recommends pitching a luxury tent.

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Travel + Leisure recently released a list of the best places in California to go glamping — which is like camping, but with more panache and amenities. Of the 24 destinations spanning the golden state, four picks are located in Sonoma County.

The travel magazine’s list includes a variety of locales to suit certain needs and interests, such as “best for families” and “underrated hidden gem” (spoiler: that one is in our own wooded backyard).

Out of all the glamping spots in the county, here’s where Travel + Leisure recommends pitching your luxury tent.

Sonoma Treehouse Adventures, Occidental

With a queen bed and bunk beds, each treehouse is designed to sleep up to four people. Treehouses will also have a sink and compostable toilet. (Courtesy of Sonoma Canopy Tours)
With a queen bed and bunk beds, each treehouse is designed to sleep up to four people. Treehouses will also have a sink and compostable toilet. (Sonoma Treehouse Adventures)
At the end of the zip line tour, a final, private zip line delivers adventure seekers to a hiking trail. It leads the way to a hillside bridge that allows for easy walking access to the treetops. Guests’ bags and snacks will be waiting in the treehouses. (Courtesy of Sonoma Canopy Tours)
At the end of the zipline tour, a final, private zipline delivers adventure seekers to a hiking trail. It leads the way to a hillside bridge that allows for easy walking access to the treetops. Guests’ bags and snacks will be waiting in the treehouses. (Sonoma Treehouse Adventures)

Touted as the “underrated hidden gem” of glamping spots, this west county locale boasts more thrilling attractions than just a simple hike in the forest. Guests can zipline through the redwoods to their private treehouse — or take one of the eight sky bridges from one of two wooden spiral staircases wrapped around a towering tree.

Treehouses accommodate up to four people and are comfortably appointed with furniture and plumbing (yes, now you can shower while you camp). Gourmet breakfasts and dinners are served room-service style to the treehouses. After a luxurious night’s sleep in the trees, guests can repel down from their treehouse and go on a guided zipline or hiking tour. Prices range from $1,046 to $1,932 per night, depending on availability and number of guests. 6250 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental, 1-888-494-7868, sonomacanopytours.com

Wildhaven Sonoma, Healdsburg

Just steps from the Russian River, there are 30 safari-style canvas tents to choose from at Wildhaven Sonoma in Healdsburg. (Wildhaven Sonoma)
Just steps from the Russian River, there are 30 safari-style canvas tents to choose from at Wildhaven Sonoma in Healdsburg. (Wildhaven Sonoma)
Wildhaven Sonoma has direct access to the Russian River, a nice perk for glampers. (Wildhaven Sonoma)
Healdsburg’s Wildhaven Sonoma has direct access to the Russian River, a nice perk for glampers. (Wildhaven Sonoma)

Tucked by the Russian River and just 10 minutes away from prime dining and wine tasting in Healdsburg, Wildhaven offers easy access to the best of Wine Country. In addition to riverside cabins, Wildhaven offers standard, premium and riverside glamping tents — all with queen beds (plus a large family tent with bunk beds). Amenities include complimentary Wi-Fi, electricity, heating, fan, heated mattress pads, fire pit and picnic table, and a covered porch with patio furniture set. Unique features at the riverside tents include a two-person hammock and string lights on the tent ceiling. Rates start at $89 per night. 2411 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 707-283-7773, wildhavensonoma.com

AutoCamp Russian River, Guerneville

Airstream trailer at AutoCamp in Guerneville. (AutoCamp Russian River)
Airstream trailer at AutoCamp in Guerneville. (AutoCamp Russian River)
AutoCamp in Guerneville also has glamping tents. (AutoCamp Russian River)
Guerneville’s AutoCamp also has glamping tents. (AutoCamp Russian River)

Camping under the redwoods became even more charming when AutoCamp rolled its shiny aluminum Airstream trailers into Guerneville. In addition to premium Airstreams, campers and cabins, there are “adventure tents” complete with queen-size Tempur-Pedic beds, electric blankets, outdoor fire pits and cooking utensils. AutoCamp also provides complimentary bikes, live music on weekends, an on-site general store and more. Rates start at $289 per night, depending on season and availability. 14120 Old Cazadero Road, Guerneville, 855-942-0792, autocamp.com

The River Electric, Guerneville

The bar and patio area of The River Electric, which is set to open in May. Photo taken in Guerneville on Thursday, February 27, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
The bar and patio area of The River Electric, which is set to open in May. Photo taken in Guerneville on Thursday, February 27, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Slated to open Memorial Day weekend, this new 12-acre camping resort and swim club features 40 furnished tents along with pools and an events venue. The River Electric has two tent options — one with a king bed and another with two full-size beds — and each includes Egyptian cotton sheets, down bedding, cozy furniture and electricity. Restrooms and showers are in a centrally located bathhouse. A complimentary continental breakfast is served from 7:30-10 a.m. daily.

Two pools are located in the center of the property: a round, 60-foot main pool and “The Little Dipper,” a smaller rectangular pool, available for communal swimming or private rental. The nearby Pool Bar, available to overnight guests and day pass holders, serves locally sourced dishes such as local cod ceviche, grass-fed beef smashburgers and veggie-packed grain bowls. The pools and bar are open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, and day passes start at $32. Room rates start from $315 per night. 16101 Neeley Road, Guerneville, 707-937-8915, theriverelectric.com

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Pliny the Younger Is Making Sonoma County Famous Worldwide. How Well Do You Know It? https://www.sonomamag.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-pliny-the-younger/ Tue, 18 Mar 2025 13:30:29 +0000 http://www.sonomamag.com/?p=30153

Russian River Brewing Company's coveted beer will be released this Friday. Here's what you need to know.

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Pliny the Younger, Russian River Brewing Company’s super-hoppy triple India pale ale, will be released Friday, March 21. It will be available until April 3 and is expected to bring thousands of self-proclaimed beer geeks to Russian River Brewing Company’s Santa Rosa and Windsor brewpubs.

This year marks the 21st anniversary of the Pliny release, which select local bars and restaurants had on tap in February.

To get you primed for Pliny time, we’ve answered some of the most common questions about the coveted brew. Click through the above gallery for photos from previous Pliny releases, plus some quick facts.

Pliny the Younger
Kegs of Russian River Brewing Co.’s coveted, limited-release Pliny the Younger in 2025. (Russian River Brewing Co.)
What’s the big deal?

Russian River brewmaster Vinnie Cilurzo first brewed “Younger” in 2005. At the time, it was the only beer of its kind: the first triple IPA. It is only available for a limited time at the brewery’s Santa Rosa and Windsor brewpubs. Until 2022, it was released in February. Since then, it has been released in March. (Since 2022, it has also been released to a selection of bars and restaurants before its official in-person release.) At the brewpubs, Pliny is only available on draft and is served in 10-ounce glasses. Patrons can also buy and take home bottles of the coveted beer — three bottles per guest are sold on a first come, first served basis, only available at the brewpubs.

OK, when can I get my hands on some Pliny?

Russian River Brewing Co.’s brewpubs in Santa Rosa and Windsor will be pouring Pliny from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, March 21 through April 3. The beer will be available each day until the brewpub runs out of that day’s allocation. Pliny pilgrims can expect long waits to get into the brewpubs; lines start to form around 5 a.m. Once inside, guests are allotted two and a half hours at the pub, three “Youngers” (10-ounce pours) and three bottles of Pliny to take home.

A group of friends traveled from Germany for the first day release of Pliny the Younger triple IPA at the Russian River Brewery in Windsor. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
A group of friends traveled from Germany for the first day release of Pliny the Younger triple IPA at the Russian River Brewery in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
If Pliny is so popular, why not just make more of it? 

According to Russian River Brewing, Pliny the Younger is a very time consuming and expensive beer to brew. It requires an exceptionally large amount of raw materials — malt and hops in particular — and takes up significant tank space at the brewery. In other words, it’s just not worth the money and effort to make more Pliny — especially when the limited supply seems to be working out just fine.

Is there any way to skip the line?

In 2018, for the first time in Younger history, a lucky few got to cut the line. Following the wildfires in October 2017, Russian River Brewing launched Sonoma Pride, which raised funds for fire relief efforts in part through $25 donations for a chance to win Pliny line-cutting privileges. Since then, however, there are no cuts allowed. For the best shot at a short wait, the time to come is midweek during the evening (Windsor is your best bet). But, believe it or not, a lot of people actually want to experience the line — come rain or shine — because “that’s where the event is.” But standing in lines has rules…

How do I master the line (and not get kicked out)? 

No matter how pumped you are about Pliny, waiting in line for hours can be boring, and bored people do silly things. Therefore, there are rules: no smoking, no drinking, no bottle sharing (in line or inside the brewpub), no camping in front of businesses (leave your pop-up tents and easy-ups at home) and come with your entire party — don’t cut in front of people who have been waiting for hours because “your friends saved your spot;” that’s not cool.

Pliny the Younger
The Russian River Brewing Co. 20th anniversary 2024 Pliny the Younger triple IPA is filtered and ready for bottles and kegs in Windsor, Monday, March 18, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
What happens once I get inside? 

Russian River Brewing Company keeps track of allotted time and pours with a four-tabbed wristband — not, disappointingly, with chalk marks like meter maids. Tabs are removed as Youngers are poured; the fourth tap is for purchasing Pliny bottles. Draft pours are not transferable, but bottle allocations can be transferred to other people in your party. Inside, Plinys can be paired with pub fare. Naturally, “Pliny” bites are the most popular pick, but “Drew” bites are also worth a try. The Windsor brewpub has more food options.

What does Pliny taste like? 

Pliny the Younger is a rendition of other Russian River Brewing Company favorite Pliny the Elder, except with more hops, malt and higher alcohol (the beer finishes around 10.25% AVB). The hops used in the recipe include Amarillo, Citra, Mosaic, Nectaron, Simcoe and Warrior. New to the mix this year is Tangier, a hop variety from Segal Ranch in Washington. According to those in the know (and Russian River Brewing Company’s website), it is loaded with hop flavors and is surprisingly smooth and dry for the amount of alcohol and malt.

Who is this Pliny character anyway? And how do I pronounce Pliny? 

Gaius Plinius Caecilius Secundus, a.k.a Pliny the Younger, was a lawyer, author and magistrate of ancient Rome. Pliny’s uncle, Pliny the Elder (also a Russian River beer), helped raise and educate him, and later adopted him. Pliny Jr. and Pliny Sr. witnessed the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD, which took Pliny the Elder’s life. While most people pronounce the popular beer “ply-knee,” the “correct” Latin pronunciation is actually “plih-nee” – rhyming with “mini.”

(Portrait of Pliny the Younger, on the marble retained after the Giovio palace in the city of Como, vintage engraved illustration. Magasin Pittoresque 1847)
Portrait of Pliny the Younger, on the marble retained after the Giovio palace in the city of Como, vintage engraved illustration. Magasin Pittoresque 1847. (Shutterstock)
What’s the Windsor brewery like? 

The Windsor brewpub can accommodate up to 200 Pliny enthusiasts (the Santa Rosa pub’s capacity is 135). The food menu offers more options than the Santa Rosa location, including burgers, double-fried Kennebec fries, fish and chips, salmon, schnitzel and salads. If you need some fresh air, you can step out on a year-round patio and 1-acre pet-friendly beer garden. In addition to Pliny the Younger, visitors can sample other popular Russian River Brewing beers.

I’m from out of town; where is a good place to stay? And how do I get around after I’ve had my share of Plinys? 

Russian River Brewing Company has partnered with a number of local hotels that are offering “Special Younger Rates” during the two-week release: Art House Hotel, Courtyard Marriott, Hotel E, Hampton Inn & Suites, Vintners Resort and The Astro Motel in Santa Rosa, Hampton Inn and Suites in Windsor and DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel in Rohnert Park.

Want to explore Sonoma County post Pliny? Uber and Lyft are available in Santa Rosa and Windsor. The SMART train is another good option.

What if I am pining for Pliny, but am not willing to wait in line for hours? 

No worries. Pliny the Younger’s close relation, Pliny the Elder, is available year round — bottled or on tap. You can also check out local restaurants and bars that may have some Younger left on tap.

Where to get Pliny the Younger

Russian River Brewing Co. Santa Rosa: 725 Fourth St.; 707-545-2337. Windsor: 700 Mitchell Lane; 707-545-2337.

Hours: Both brewpubs will be open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. through April 3. Pliny will be available each day until the brewpub runs out of that day’s allocation. Customers can expect long wait times, with lines starting to form around 5 a.m. or earlier.

Information: russianriverbrewing.com/pliny-the-younger-release

The 20th anniversary 2024 Pliny the Younger triple IPA was bottled and packaged at the Russian River Brewing Co. in Windsor, Tuesday, March 19, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The 20th anniversary 2024 Pliny the Younger triple IPA was bottled and packaged at the Russian River Brewing Co. in Windsor, Tuesday, March 19, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Looking for things to do in Santa Rosa during your Pliny visit? Check out this guide to the city.

Had your three Plinys in Windsor and wondering what to do next? We’ve got you covered with restaurants, tasting rooms and fun activities.

Sarah Doyle, Sofia Englund, Maci Martell, Jess Poshepny-Vallery and Christi Warren contributed to this article. 

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Those Working To Preserve the Russian River Watershed’s Native Coho Salmon Offer Hope for a Flourishing Future https://www.sonomamag.com/those-working-to-preserve-the-russian-river-watersheds-native-coho-salmon-offer-hope-for-a-flourishing-future/ Tue, 18 Feb 2025 00:14:36 +0000 https://www.sonomamag.com/?p=121847 Coho salmon

A Santa Rosa photographer took alluring portraits of endangered coho salmon — and the people working to save them — "so that we can all remember what it is we should be fighting for.”

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Coho salmon

Santa Rosa photographer Kaare Iverson was on a photo assignment for a winery along Dry Creek outside Healdsburg when a colossal construction project caught his eye.

“I found these mysterious wooden pillars sprouting from the edge of the creek,” he remembers. Iverson later learned the pillars were part of a project to create habitat for endangered salmon. “I felt such an immense sense of pride in my community, that we would exert such enormous effort at such expense for conservation.”

Iverson grew up in a commercial fishing family in the Prince Rupert region of northern British Columbia, where a healthy salmon population makes annual returns in prodigious numbers. After moving to Sonoma County, Iverson became curious about the natural history of the Russian River watershed and, he says, “a bit obsessed with the idea that it once held, and could again hold, enormous runs of coho and chinook.”

Sonoma’s Russian River watershed was historically home to hearty populations of native salmon like those Iverson was familiar with in British Columbia. After Russian River surveys in the early 2000s revealed that local species had dwindled to dangerously low numbers, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Sonoma Water and other local agencies have spent the past two decades trying to preserve the unique genetics of native coho salmon.

Coho salmon
Sonoma’s Russian River watershed was historically home to hearty populations of native salmon. (Kaare Iverson)
Sonoma’s Russian River watershed was historically home to hearty populations of native salmon. However, Russian River surveys in the early 2000s revealed that local species had dwindled to dangerously low numbers. (Kaare Iverson)
Sonoma’s Russian River watershed was historically home to hearty populations of native salmon. However, Russian River surveys in the early 2000s revealed that local species had dwindled to dangerously low numbers. (Kaare Iverson)

The contrast between the waters where Iverson grew up fishing with his father and the Russian River, where salmon populations have been so depleted, has led Iverson to consider what it would be like to live in a world without wild salmon. “I know what this place could be like… and I recognize that it’s going to take a considerable shift in public perception to get it there.”

For the project, Iverson photographed at the Warm Springs Fish Hatchery west of Geyserville, home to native coho breeding programs, as well as at several restoration locations in the Russian River watershed. He used both modern equipment and a large-format Ansco camera that, remarkably, once belonged to Ansel Adams. Iverson’s stepfather’s cousin, who worked in a framing shop in Carmel, acquired the camera in the 1980s and later passed it to Iverson.

Iverson’s portraits of the salmon — and the people working to save them — convey his belief in treating overlooked populations with the same reverence reserved for charismatic, keystone species like bison and grizzly bears. Iverson says he wanted to create portraits “that give these fish a sense of personality, going so far as to anthropomorphize them in a way that feels human, personal and conversational.”

Beyond composing his alluring images, Iverson brings a strong sense of purpose to the work, connecting viewers with the roots of their natural history — “so that the knowledge of what this watershed could be is not lost, and so that we can all remember what it is we should be fighting for.”

Precocious Jack

Coho salmon
A precocious jack is a salmon that reaches sexual maturity at age two rather than the typical three years, a natural adaptation that leads to greater genetic diversity. This coho salmon represents a successful return of adult spawning salmon to the Russian River watershed. (Kaare Iverson)

A precocious jack is a salmon that reaches sexual maturity at age two rather than the typical three years, a natural adaptation that leads to greater genetic diversity.

Iverson had been granted a single day to shoot at Geyserville’s Warm Springs Fish Hatchery. But the water that day was filled with silt, too opaque to create the portraits he’d envisioned. Fortunately, a biologist remembered they’d frozen about 20 gallons of clearer lake water, “just enough to fill the aquarium we were using to hold the fish,” Iverson recalls. The lake water still contained a small amount of silt; those are the flecks in the photo.

“After a few test images, I realized I could modify my lighting such that the silt would catch the light and create a bit of a vignette around the fish,” he says. “And it added depth and a sense of the water itself that I appreciate more than the original idea.”

A Brighter Dawn

The sun rises over a recently built side channel on Sonoma County's Dry Creek. The vertical stumps that at first appear as a recently logged streamside are actually full length logs that have been pneumatically driven into the ground to stabilize flow enhancing features. The denuded ground has been stripped of exotic plant species and reseeded with native riparian species. This stretch of water will maintain steady, cool and slow flowing water that is ideal for young Coho salmon. (Kaare Iverson)
The sun rises over a recently built side channel on Sonoma County’s Dry Creek. The vertical stumps that at first appear as a recently logged streamside are actually full length logs that have been pneumatically driven into the ground to stabilize flow enhancing features. The denuded ground has been stripped of invasive plant species and reseeded with native riparian species. This stretch of water will maintain steady, cool and slow flowing water that is ideal for young coho salmon. (Kaare Iverson)

Water trickles into one of dozens of new enhancement sites along Dry Creek. Seeded with native flora and studded with wooden poles, this development will form a year-round, cool-water refuge for young salmonids and other native animals. Before the first sprout broke through the burlap, the location was already occupied by fish-eating birds, a sign of the ecosystem coming back to life.

“I loved watching this site develop,” Iverson says. “To see a landscape torn apart by machines meticulously reassembled with engineered waterways, and ultimately repopulated by native animals, was inspiring. An untrained eye could easily mistake this site for a devastated clear-cut landscape, rather than a setting for potential ecological energy. There’s a definite sense of momentum.”

Handle with Care

Coho salmon
Biologist Ken Leister gently grips a female salmon at Warm Springs Fish Hatchery in Geyserville. (Kaare Iverson)

At Warm Springs Fish Hatchery, biologist Ken Leister grips a female salmon. As part of restoration efforts, mature female salmon who return in winter to the Russian River watershed to spawn and die are instead euthanized at the hatchery. Their eggs are harvested and mixed with the milt, or sperm, of male salmon with desirable genetics, and the resulting juvenile fish are returned to local waters.

Leister holds the female salmon gently — any blood or fluids that contact the unfertilized eggs could damage them. “Each egg is important to the survival of the population. The margin for error in the recovery of these fish is slim,” Iverson says. “There’s a preciousness to how all this biological potential is handled, love and care and death and rebirth all happening at once.”

One Fish, Two Fish

A Sonoma Water staffer cleans the viewing window at a diversion dam below Wohler Bridge on the Russian River. (Kaare Iverson)
A Sonoma Water staffer cleans the viewing window at a diversion dam below Wohler Bridge on the Russian River. (Kaare Iverson)

A Sonoma Water staffer cleans the viewing window at a diversion dam below Wohler Bridge on the Russian River. This narrow passage in the dam’s fish ladder allows for an accurate count of returning fish, including both hatchery-bred fish and those born in the wild. Iverson had hoped to photograph fish going up the ladder, but few fish have returned in recent years. When he made this image in early 2023, it was already apparent that the coho that year were either unusually late in their return, or perhaps not returning at all.

“As I watched them clean the viewing window, I was immediately struck by the mix of futility and hope these scientists were harboring,” says Iverson.

Breeding for Diversity

Biologist Emily Van Seeters places fertilized coho eggs into spawning racks at Warm Springs Fish Hatchery. (Kaare Iverson)
Biologist Emily Van Seeters places fertilized coho eggs into spawning racks at Warm Springs Fish Hatchery. (Kaare Iverson)

Biologist Emily Van Seeters places fertilized coho eggs into spawning racks at Warm Springs Fish Hatchery. In winter, during spawning season, the racks are fed with a constant stream of fresh water coming out of Lake Sonoma. Each female is spawned with up to four different males for genetic diversity, according to the California Department of Fish and Wildlife.

Coho salmon
A juvenile coho raised at the hatchery is weighed before being fitted with a tracking tag. (Kaare Iverson)

A juvenile coho raised at the hatchery is weighed before being fitted with a tracking tag. The hatchery’s conservation work was honored as part of the Lake Sonoma Steelhead Festival on Saturday, Feb. 8 (steelheadfestival.org).

Human-made “Natural” Habitat

Large-scale dams such as Warm Springs are primary culprits in the decline of salmon populations. But as water temperatures rise in local creeks due to climate change, cooler water released from the depths of the reservoirs can help salmon. The problem is that high flows also wash away the gravel beds that females need for spawning, as well as stands of woody debris where juvenile salmon can shelter and grow.

Temporary equipment isolates a section of waterway so that workers can construct habitat features that will benefit young salmon. (Kaare Iverson)
Temporary equipment isolates a section of waterway so that workers can construct habitat features that will benefit young salmon. (Kaare Iverson)

“Without a place to rest, small fish would be blasted out into the main stem of the river where they stand little chance of surviving,” Iverson says.

Local agencies and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers are driving wooden poles into the riverbank and piling up brush to simulate natural habitat, as well as installing metal blockades to slow the course of the water. The first 3 miles of a planned 6-mile restoration along Dry Creek is nearly compete.

Cycle of Life

Coho salmon
Salmon typically spend their first year in a river or stream before migrating to the Pacific Ocean to live for two years. In the winter of their third year, they return to the stream where they originated to spawn and then die. (Kaare Iverson)

This hatchery salmon, after it died, was planted in Green Valley Creek by volunteer Doug Gore. Salmon typically spend their first year in a river or stream before migrating to the Pacific Ocean to live for two years. In the winter of their third year, they return to the stream where they originated to spawn and then die. Their bodies become a part of the food web, providing nutrition for small invertebrates, younger salmon and otters.

Gore tells Iverson he’s seeing less invertebrate life in the streams he visits, a concern echoed by biologists worldwide. And without the local efforts of Gore and other passionate conservationists, it’s possible that native coho might already have disappeared entirely from the Russian River watershed. That’s a world difficult to imagine. But Iverson’s images of the salmon and those seeking to steward their recovery offer hope for a more bountiful, flourishing future.

Correction (Feb. 21, 2025, 2 p.m.): This story has been updated to correct the type of equipment shown in photos for salmon habitat restoration projects.

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