The bar for downtown Petaluma’s tasting room scene just got a little higher with the addition of Montagne Russe. Doubling as a record shop, the newly opened venue pours cool-climate Pinot Noir, Syrah and Chardonnay, plus Rhône-style selections under the winery’s Le Pöet-Laval side label.

The story

Kevin Bersofsky might still be a garage winemaker today if his neighbor hadn’t ratted him out to the feds. While working for Sutter Home Winery in 2006, Bersofsky started making his own wine at home in St. Helena. He started with a few barrels and gradually expanded production to more than a dozen. Then, in 2013, somebody squealed.

The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau quickly shut down Bersofsky’s illicit operation, forcing him to dump four precious barrels down the drain. (In my mind, the feds shoot the barrels with 1920s machine guns as red wine spurts from the bullet holes. It may or may not have actually gone down that way.) Bersofsky learned his lesson and went legit, officially founding Montagne Russe in 2015.

Taking its name from the French term for roller coaster — Bersofsky helped design one as an engineering undergraduate — Montagne Russe specializes in single-vineyard wines from the Petaluma Gap and other cool-climate regions. The winery buys fruit from local growers and makes the wines at Brooks Note just down the street. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah are flagships.

The vibe

After closing its Healdsburg tasting room at Bacchus Landing, Montagne Russe took over the Black Knight Vineyards space in Petaluma last month.

Walking into the sunny, open room, visitors are greeted with a giant roller coaster graphic that twists its way across the entire left-hand wall. Weeeee!

Tasters can settle into window seating facing Petaluma Boulevard, perch at high-top tables or grab stools at the white quartz tasting bar. The atmosphere is relaxed for both humans and pups; there’s even a basket of dog toys so furry ones can chew while their humans sip.

A small alcove at the back of the venue serves as a record emporium with thousands of albums for sale. (Bersofsky’s personal vinyl collection lives behind the bar — and yes, he does take requests.)

On the palate

Bersofsky is the chief financial officer at Folio Fine Wine Partners in his weekday gig, but he says he’s not a numbers guy in the vineyard. Grape-picking decisions are made according to taste, when the fruit achieves the right balance between flavor, sugar and acidity.

I could happily quaff the 2023 Le Pöet-Laval White Rhone Blend from Mendocino County ($35) all summer long. It’s crisp and lean, with appealing peachy aromas and flavors. The 2022 Montagne Russe Dragon’s Back Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($58) is a pretty, floral wine with aromas of raspberries and spice. The 2021 Alder Springs Syrah from Mendocino County ($55) is like sipping blackberry pancakes with a side of bacon. The wine is savory and structured, with a lush, long finish.

Tastings cost $35 (choose between Montagne Russe and Le Pöet-Laval flights). Mad scientist types can also book a “winemaker for a day” blending session for $100. Stay tuned in the coming months for “Vinyls & Vino” trivia events, movie nights and live music.

Beyond the bottle

Just across the street from Montagne Russe, Stellina Alimentari is the place to savor an Italian-style focaccia sandwich or made-to-order arancini. Italian house wines are typically just 10 bucks a glass, and there are lots of yummy pantry items and take-home bottles for sale.

Montagne Russe is open from noon to 6 p.m. Sunday through Monday and from noon to 8 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. 155 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, ​1-855-GO-RUSSE (1-855-467-8773), russewines.com

Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED, and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.

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Dozens of Sonoma County wines sport the Petaluma Gap designation on their labels, yet the appellation isn’t often the first one people think of when they plan a wine tasting excursion.

Sure, the wind-swept appellation grows excellent Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah, and the terrain is beautiful, but there just aren’t a whole lot of wineries in the area. In fact, you can count the number of tasting rooms on a couple of hands and maybe part of one foot.

Keller Estate, set on a lovely property just a few miles from downtown Petaluma, shines a well-deserved spotlight on this under-the-radar region.

The story

Keller Estate is no newbie to Petaluma’s winemaking scene. Founder Arturo Keller was born and raised in Mexico City and created a successful business there producing seats for the auto industry before veering off onto a new path. In the early ‘80s, Keller and his wife, Deborah, purchased a 600-acre property in Petaluma and planted Chardonnay at the site in 1989.

The Kellers sold the grapes to Rombauer Vineyards for many years before making the leap from growers to vintners. In 2000, they hired Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta to design their namesake winery. Their daughter Ana Keller now runs the family business.

The vibe

The late Arturo Keller’s lifelong love of vintage automobiles is a big part of the winery vibe. Near the entrance, visitors are greeted by a life-size sculpture of the founder behind the wheel of an open-top 1929 Mercedes-Benz. Parked inside the tasting room — a welcoming space with wood beam ceilings, terra-cotta tiles and colorful art — are cars from Keller’s impressive collection, such as the snazzy 1910 Ford Model T currently on display.

The tasting room opens out onto a pretty stone courtyard, a scenic spot for seated tastings with sweeping views of the Petaluma River Valley. Visitors can also book a tasting in the winery’s Collection Room, home to a rotating lineup of vintage cars dating from 1900 to 1960.

On the palate

Keller’s star varieties are estate-grown Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. If, like me, you’re a fan of Chardonnays that are on the leaner side — but not too far on the spectrum — you’ll love the 2021 Oro de Plata ($42). It’s fermented and aged in stainless steel instead of oak, so the bright fruit takes center stage. It has some attractive tropical fruit notes and a brisk acidity that brings it all into balance.

The 2021 La Cruz Chardonnay ($52), fermented and aged in oak barrels, has a similar pineapple thing going on, but the wine has a creamier texture and a richer mouthfeel. Among the Pinots, the 2021 El Coro ($70) is deep and complex, with a ripe black cherry vibe, while the 2019 Rôtie Syrah ($65) shows the softer side of this often-brawny grape. Tastings range from $40 to $85 per person.

Beyond the bottles

Keller is tapping into its Mexican roots Nov. 2 with a Dia de los Muertos Fiesta on the winery plaza ($125 per person). It features a communal altar for displaying photos of departed loved ones, plus traditional dancing, music, wine and street food.

On Thursdays from Nov. 7 through March 27, Keller will host “Loteria Night,” billed as a “bingo night with a Latin flair.” Just $20 gets you into the game with a glass of wine.

Keller Estate, 5875 Lakeville Highway, Petaluma. Open Wednesday to Sunday by reservation. 707-765-2117, kellerestate.com

Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.

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Petaluma has become a mini-hub for winery tasting rooms, with Adobe Road Winery, Barber Cellars, Black Knight Vineyards, Sonoma Portworks, and Brooks Note setting up shop downtown.

Last month, DRNK Wines joined the club with the launch of its pop-up tasting room at The Bagel Mill.

Wine with bagels? Is that even a thing? No, it isn’t — at least not yet. DRNK (pronounced “drink”) welcomes wine lovers only after the bagel shop has packed up its schmears for the day. Open 4-8 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, the venue pours wines by the flight, glass, and bottle.

While DRNK already runs a tasting room at its winery property in Sebastopol, co-owners Ryan and Katie Kunde loved the idea of opening an “urban” outpost in downtown Petaluma. The Bagel Mill, owned by Katie’s sister Glenda Dougherty, offered the perfect venue for an afternoon-to-evening pop-up.

“We like being near a city hub,” says Ryan. “You can come in for a taste before your dinner reservation or stop in after.” Guests can also order food from Stockhome restaurant next door via a QR code and have it delivered to DRNK in take-out containers.

Though the Petaluma tasting room is new, DRNK Wines is not. A fifth-generation winemaker, Ryan founded the winery in 2012 with Katie and her parents Dale and Nancy Dougherty. This was a natural progression for Ryan, who grew up on the Kunde Family Estate in Sonoma Valley. After a post-college stint in wine sales for E. & J. Gallo, he did a couple of harvest internships at local wineries that helped him discover his true calling: making small-lot wines from distinctive vineyards across Sonoma County.

“This is one of the most agriculturally diverse counties, and there are more grape varieties grown in the correct locations here than ever before,” says Ryan. “This is kind of the golden era for viticulture in California, but Sonoma County is special in that there’s so much diversity.”

Ryan likes to let each individual site determine the direction for the wines while taking people a little bit by surprise. “As a boutique producer,” he says, noting that the winery makes just 1,000 cases per year, “it’s kind of my responsibility to bring wines to people that they don’t expect to like. I’ve have people tell me, ‘I’m not really a Chardonnay person, but that was really good.’”

Whatever Ryan makes, his dedication to craft comes through. The wines are approachable and delicious, showcasing beautiful balance and bright purity of fruit.

Flights at DRNK’s Petaluma pop-up, priced at $30 for a choice of six selections, currently include two Pinot Noir wines, a Sauvignon Blanc, a red blend and an old-vine Zinfandel. For a fun twist, the winery also offers a lively Sauvignon Blanc Pet-Nat and a fresh Pinot Gris Orange Wine. Wines are also available by the half-flight, glass, and bottle.

If all goes well for the pop-up, DRNK may eventually seek out a full-time space downtown. “It’s possible,” says Ryan. “Anything could happen.”

The tasting room is open 4-8 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. 212 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-823-3637, drnkwines.com

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