You don’t have to wait until Cinco de Mayo to enjoy the sweet, sour, salty, boozy taste of a well-made margarita.

Often hailed as the quintessential Mexican cocktail, the origins of the margarita remain debated — some claim it was invented in Tijuana in the 1930s while others say the first margarita was concocted by a Dallas socialite at her Acapulco vacation home in 1948.

No matter where it came from or how you like yours — frozen or on the rocks, with or without salt, flavor-infused or classic — Sonoma County serves up some marvelous margaritas. Here are our top picks.

La Rosa Tequileria & Grille, Santa Rosa: La Rosa’s La Diabla is a favorite margarita made with lime, strawberry (or other fruits, your choice) and muddled serrano chiles, served on the rocks. A little spicy, a little naughty. If heat isn’t your thing, try one of their 12 other margaritas, or keep it simple with a sip of tequila from the expansive bar, which features over 180 artisan tequilas and mezcals. 500 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-523-3663, larosasantarosa.com

Paradise Sushi, Santa Rosa: Ignore the fact that they’re not made with real tequila, because this sweet little flight of margs is every bit as tasty. Pair with a couple of California rolls, and you’re in for a brilliant evening. 119 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, paradisesushi.net

Lazeaway Club at the Flamingo Resort, Santa Rosa: Grab a poolside table and a fresh margarita and enjoy the “ode to idleness” vibe at the renovated resort. 2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-510-4533, lazeawayclub.com

Sweet T’s, Santa Rosa: The secret to the Texas Margarita? Pineapple and a kick of cayenne pepper. But oh, how sweet it is. 9098 Brooks Road South, Windsor, 707-687-5185, sweettssouthern.com

Ricardo’s Bar & Grill, Santa Rosa: A popular hangout for Bennett Valley residents, Ricardo’s serves up tasty martinis and a delicious house margarita that uses Sauza Blue tequila and is served on the rocks in a tall, skinny glass. Or go big with their top shelf — it’s worth the upgrade. Pair it with shrimp tacos from the secret menu and you’ll be more than satisfied. 2700 Yulupa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-545-7696, ricardosbarandgrillca.com

Cascabel, Santa Rosa: Originally a tequila lounge based out of San Rafael, Cascabel opened a second location in Montgomery Village. They offer up plenty of delicious tequila-focused cocktails, with the Margarita de la Casa as number one on the list. 909 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 707-521-9444, cascabelbayarea.com

El Gallo Negro, Windsor: This Windsor restaurant and mezcaleria serves up Oaxacan-influenced dishes and a margarita for everyone with 11 festive options, including their house margarita, La Margarita, a Mezcal margarita, skinny margarita and the Mucho Caliente. 8465 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor, 707-838-9511, elgallonegro.net

Agave, Healdsburg: Agave offers one of the largest tequila selections in the county and hosts regular tastings. Order a house margarita or go big with La Reyna del Sur, which is made with Herradura silver tequila, fresh squeezed lime and Grand Marnier. Enjoy your margarita al fresco with chef Octavio Diaz’s mother’s speciality, traditional molé from Oaxaca. 1063 Vine St., Healdsburg, 707-433-2411, agavehealdsburg.com

Roof 106, Healdsburg: The Modern Margarita is a wonder of modern alchemy. This classic cocktail is crystal-clear, making for a sneaky drink that’s every bit as good as the original. Maybe better. 106 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-723-1106, thematheson.com

Maya Restaurant, Sonoma: Maya serves up contemporary Yucatan cuisine and the largest tequila selection in town. All of their margaritas use 100% Blue Weber Agave tequila and their house margarita is no joke — it packs a punch with silver tequila, orange liqueur, and fresh lemon and lime juice. For something a bit more fruity, try their pomegranate margarita. 101 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-935-3500, mayarestaurant.com

La Casa Restaurant, Sonoma: One of the oldest restaurants in Sonoma knows how to throw down the margaritas — they offer six types — many use recipes that date back to the restaurant’s 1967 opening. Try the Coat Rack, which uses Cazadores Reposado tequila, Cointreau and fresh squeezed lime, or order a house margarita during happy hour. 121 E. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-996-3406, lacasarestaurants.com

Taqueria La Hacienda, Sonoma: Sonoma locals flock to La Hacienda, not just for their hearty portions of Mexican food, which includes the best homemade molé in town, but also for their gigantic margaritas. Skip the house margarita and go top shelf with a blend of their famous margarita mix and El Jimador Tequila Blanco Triple Sec, topped with floats of Grand Marnier and Cointreau. They also serve a margarita using organic tequila. 17960 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-939-8226, lahaciendasonomabarandgrill.com

Oso Sonoma, Sonoma: Oso’s food is great and so are their cocktails. Pair Oso’s shrimp tacos with a blood orange margarita, which uses Sabé Teq, blood orange puree, lime, agave and salt. 9 E. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-931-6926, ososonoma.com

Mi Pueblo, Petaluma: Mi Pueblo, located in the heart Petaluma’s historic downtown, hosts a popular happy hour, with speciality margaritas, such as their jalapeño margarita. Local fans describe Mi Pueblo’s margaritas as being “the size of a mixing bowl” and therefore shareable for two — but would you really want to share your margarita? 108 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-769-9066, eatmipueblopetaluma.com

Plaza Tequila, Petaluma: Popular with happy hour enthusiasts, Plaza Tequila offers margarita lovers plenty of options to pair with their expansive menu. Treat yourself to a top shelf margarita, which is topped off with a float of Cointreau, and sit back and relax on their shaded patio. 600 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 707-776-4949, plazatequila.com

Mi Ranchito, Cotati: Mi Ranchito loves tequila so much they have their own tequila club. Their specialty margaritas run the gamut of colors, tastes and sizes. Try La Borracha, which is topped off with a mini-Corona beer or a refreshing cucumber margarita that uses Milagro silver tequila. 7600 Commerce Blvd., Cotati, 707-795-7600, miranchitocotati.com

El Barrio, Guerneville: One of the hottest spots in Guerneville, El Barrio pairs tequila and mezcal craft cocktails with small Mexican plates. USA Today calls their La Adelita margarita — made with Cebeza tequila, Cointreau, hibiscus, and lime — “sultry.” They also offer mezcal margaritas, like the El Barrio, which uses just a few simple ingredients: Fidencio mezcal, agave and lime juice. Order some Mexican deviled eggs and chill on the patio. 16230 Main St., Guerneville, 707-604-7601, elbarriobar.com

Underwood Bar and Grill, Graton: A popular hangout for locals, including winemakers and artists, Underwood offers a top notch craft cocktail program, which of course includes a margarita. Their Mercury Margarita uses Herradura Blanco tequila, Grand Marnier, Cointreau, house-made sweet & sour, and fresh orange juice. It’s a perfect match with their signature grilled hamburger. 9113 Graton Road, Graton, 707-823-7023, underwoodgraton.com

El Coronel Mexican Restaurant, Sebastopol: This family-friendly establishment, with an outdoor patio, makes for a great spot to enjoy one of nine speciality margaritas — especially if you love a more fruity twist. Their Pink Cadillac margarita stars Chambord, giving it a distinct raspberry flavor, and the Georgia Peach features peach Schnapps. 1015 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-829-7010, elcoronelrestaurant.com

Rocker Oysterfeller’s, Valley Ford: This Valley Ford saloon offers contemporary twists on classics, including the margarita, which comprises fresh lime, Arette tequila, Patron Citronage and agave. Enjoy it with their beer-battered fish tacos, served with apple-fennel slaw and a spicy remoulade sauce. Too many margaritas? Sleep it off at their onsite hotel. 14415 Highway 1, Valley Ford, 707-876-1983, rockeroysterfellers.com

Heather Irwin and Sarah Stierch contributed to this article.

The post Where to Get the Best Margaritas in Sonoma County appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

It’s tough to keep a great chef down. As restaurants rode the wave of the pandemic, many talented food professionals found their careers taking unplanned turns. Yet rather than throw in the kitchen towel, some creative types turned to opening cottage enterprises, renting large commercial kitchens — or even securing permits for their home kitchens — to create new businesses.

The scale remains small for now, but given the allure of these one-of-a-kind artisan operations, not to mention the local support they’ve received, the sky’s the limit. “This isn’t how I normally launch things,” laughs chef Jennifer McMurry of her new Friday night supper club in Sonoma Valley. “Normally I have to know where I’m going with something before I leap.” But sometimes, not knowing can be delicious.

T & K Mixology, Sonoma

Home-based happy hour became quite a thing this past year, and thanks to craft bartenders Kenneth De Alba, 38, and Tony Leyva, 32, we can rival the region’s best mixologists. The duo introduced their artisanal cocktail mixer company in March 2020, after they lost their full-time jobs at Sonoma’s El Dorado Kitchen due to Covid.

“With bars being shut down, there was an obvious gap in the home market for craft cocktails,” says De Alba. “We looked at store-bought mixers and realized they didn’t taste fresh, and that we could make our own to taste as perfect as something we would serve at the bar.”

The result is a heavenly, all-natural quaff made in tiny batches of less than three cases per week in flavors like blood-orange margarita and strawberry.

Glittering like liquid jewels in their hand-labeled canning jars, the colorful mixes are exquisite enough to drink on their own, but T& K includes recipes for expert drinks like a Spicy Mezçal Margarita rimmed with chile salt.

“I’ve always described creating cocktails as cooking, combining fresh ingredients and flavors,” De Alba says. “We try to support local farmers, like using fruit from Watmaugh Strawberries in Sonoma, and organic California citrus. It brings us great joy to work with local businesses, and see how we’ve all come together and helped each other through these difficult times.” To order, search Facebook for T& K Mixology, find them on Instagram @tnkmixology, or email tnkmixology@gmail.com.

Sean of the Bread, Kenwood

For his new home-based business, professional baker Sean Perry managed to come up with the cleverest name we’ve heard in a long time, a riff on popular zombie movie titles of the early 2000s. Perry left his retail bakery job in San Francisco to move to the town of Kenwood last November and immediately sold several starters to neighborhood customers sheltering in place. Soon, orders were pouring in for his own fresh-baked sourdough bread, ancient grain loaves, English muffins, and bagels.

“The science of bread is fascinating, and I love explaining it to people,” Perry explains. “Grain’s ability to develop gluten and trap the wonderful gases produced by fermentation is what makes it a magical gift to humankind.”

Inspired by the tradition of small towns and villages having a local baker, Perry delivers his art within a three-mile radius of Kenwood or will meet customers in town for pick-ups.

It’s worth a drive for the all-natural, golden crusted breads lovingly mixed and shaped by hand, then baked loaf by loaf.

“I wake up around 4 a.m. every day,” he says. “This allows me to ensure that a product will never be rushed, and I can adhere to the bread’s schedule as opposed to trying to force the bread to adhere to mine.” To order, email seanofthebreadkenwood@gmail.com or visit seanofthebreadkenwood.com.

Ta’ Bueno, Sonoma

Surely, a superb cure for pandemic stress has to be gooey, cheese-laden enchiladas bathed in rich sauce, or steamy tamales plumped with lots of toothsome pork cloaked in fruity-smoky guajillo chile sauce. Happiness surely comes in complex, chocolatey chicken mole, sopes made with homemade masa, and creamy arroz con leche.

It’s Erik Mejia to the rescue, who debuted his Ta’ Bueno (“It’s Good”) Mexican food in August 2020 after a heady career at restaurants such as the three-Michelin-starred Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Helena, which was lost last September in the Glass Fire.

Based on home delivery, Mejia’s concept is run out of a donut shop in Sonoma and showcases family dishes treasured through generations. “We had to call our grandmothers in for this, taking old recipes from our relatives from distinct parts of Mexico,” he says. That includes using real lard in the tamale masa, because, as Mejia, notes, “We are trying to keep Mexican food as authentic as possible. It is very hard to find a substitution for lard that keeps the full flavor, texture, and smoothness of a tamale.”

That said, he has introduced a best-selling vegan tamale that’s sumptuous, too — “because the world and its people are changing.” To order, visit facebook.com/tabuenosonoma, Instagram @tabuenosonoma, email tabuenosonoma@gmail.com or call 707-408-3138.

Kraffty Kitchen, Kenwood

Cookie dough is delightful enough, but when it’s healthy, it’s an extra-special pleasure. Kraffty Kitchen chef-owner Audrey Krafft’s treats are free of sugar, gluten, dairy, and eggs — and are ready to bake, freeze, or simply enjoy raw.

“Growing up, I would make a batch almost every week, occasionally baking cookies but 99% of the time just making it for the delicious dough,” she says. “I was obsessed.”

The fitness coach and personal trainer launched her company in March 2020, when shelter-in-place allowed her to focus on her paleo, vegan, and keto-friendly recipes. Because Krafft is sensitive to most added sugars, she uses zero-calorie monk fruit extract; she also uses a custom combination of almond and cassava flour. Her other secret weapons? Organic vegan butter from Miyoko’s Creamery in Petaluma, and natural vanilla and almond extracts from Sonoma Syrup Co.

“It took me almost a year to get the right consistency, texture and flavor,” she says. “And really, what’s better than eating someone else’s cooking in your jammies in the comfort of your home?” Available at Glen Ellen Market in Glen Ellen or Baker & Cook in Sonoma, or order online at krafftykitchen.com.

Viola Supper Club, Sonoma

Last fall, Jennifer McMurry, formerly of Viola Pastry Boutique and The Pharmacy, realized she had an opportunity to create restaurant-quality meals for longtime customers. Now, every Monday, she creates a new menu, then cooks multi-course, heat-and-eat meals, delivered on Friday. More than catering, it’s become a club, with local members who join on Instagram, then often celebrate their meals together via social media.

“I created this model directly due to the pandemic,” McMurry says. “I started small, working with former customers who knew me and my food. I really wanted to create something that felt special. It is very personal – I work with every guest individually.”

McMurry named the club for her grandmother, Viola, and follows her rule of showcasing fresh, organic, seasonal ingredients. “We buy local as much as we possibly can,” she says. “I shop at the farmers market every week to determine the menu. We also grow a lot of our own produce, and use local organic eggs and Straus dairy products.”

The menus are marvelous. One recent week, the meal began with chanterelle sformato with Pecorino Romano cheese and organic cauliflower, and ended with cardamom panna cotta and homemade salted caramels. “I’m grateful to have created something new during a pretty rough time,” she says. “It feels amazing every Friday when we get to deliver the food to people, and have a moment to see their excitement.” Join via Instagram @chefjennifermcmurry.

The post Amid Pandemic Shutdowns, Some Local Chefs Started Working from Home appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

You don’t have to understand impressionism to admire a Monet painting. Consider every doctor’s office or freshman dorm room they grace with blurry beauty. The chaotic overlapping drips of a Jackson Pollock, however, require a little more context to appreciate. Both are beautiful, but one takes a little more effort to understand. Fern Bar, which opened in October 2018 in Sebastopol’s Barlow, is beautiful and is a spot that needs a little context.

Part lounge, part restaurant, it’s the latest addition to restaurateur Lowell Sheldon’s lineup of disparate eateries including Lowell’s and Handline. Each has a distinctive point of view — casual Latin-inspired, seasonal Italian or New American — bound together by Sheldon’s unwavering commitment to hyperlocal ingredients. 

While Lowell’s was my favorite restaurant of 2018 and Handline has become a family favorite for homemade tortillas and fresh seafood it’s taken me longer to understand the ambiguity of Fern Bar.

With its lush greenery, elevated craft cocktails, flea-market chic and ambitious menu from Chef Joe Zobel, it’s not a simple bar. There are no throw-away bar snacks or burgers, no plain-Jane cocktails. Fern Bar is something entirely of its own. But it’s also not exactly a restaurant.

Sitting down with Zobel, who is a co-owner of Fern Bar and the former chef of Lowell’s, a clearer picture emerges. For one, the chef was eager to spread his culinary wings on this menu after more than a decade of cooking rustic Italian.

Zobel’s menu makes a trip through American cuisine with Indian Fry Bread inspired by his native Southwest, along with California-inspired chicken liver mousse with dehydrated beet chips, spiced crumble and pistachios, brilliant pink pickled quail eggs, or the Umami Bomb with an array of mushrooms and nutritional yeast. Fried chicken with hot sauce crema nods to the South. And it keeps going: Asian chive pancake with charred cabbage ($10), green curry trout ($23) comingle with and French panisse fries making the menu’s point of view a little hard to discern.  Zobel, however, likes the idea of branching out, and separating himself from what he’s done in the past.

“I like to start with something and then spin it,” he said, “We want to surprise people with what’s on the plate. With Fern Bar we want to do something that Sonoma County has never seen.”

Within that context, Fern Bar, and it’s constantly evolving menu, feel like an adventure in eating and a window into the wildly creative mind of Zobel. While there are spectacular wins and daring misses, but overall, I consider us lucky to have the ambitious risk-taking and passion of a culinary Pollock in a sea of hazy Monets.

Best Bets
Prices range from $6 nibbles to $12-15 small bites, $12-$22 entrées and $8 desserts. Craft cocktails and mocktails are $13, beer and wine by the glass are available along with homemade sodas and shrubs. There are many vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options along with meaty fare.

Umami Bomb, $27: True to its name, mushrooms are at the heart of this savory, meaty (though meatless) dish. Shiitake cream, fried broccoli, sticky rice and balsamic reduction join the umami party with a dusting of nutritional yeast as the guest of honor. Vegan and gluten-free.

Chicken Liver Mousse, $22: Zobel says this is one of his best dishes, and he’s dead right. A quenelle of rich mousse made with all of the cream and butter is framed by shards of sweet-salty beet crackers.

Beef Tartare, $17: What seems like a simple dish of raw beef is elevated to an art form with savory bits of diced beef flap sprinkled with cured egg — an ingredient having a moment in chef circles. Made by dehydrating an egg yolk in salt, shaved over meat it adds a delicate creaminess without overpowering the tang of meat.

Fry Bread, $20: Indian fry bread has a slightly sweet, yeasty crispness similar to a doughnut. Topped with shredded beef in a chile sauce, it’s elegant street food.

Candy Cap and Bourbon Semifreddo ($8): The maple flavor of candy cap mushrooms with orange is a grownup version of a creamsicle with candied walnuts and slightly bitter coffee salt.

Needs Work
Fried Chicken, $15: There’s a lot to like about this comforting dish, but the gluten-free crust just doesn’t get crisp enough to make it a complete winner.

Cocktail Time
The term craft-cocktail has become as meaningless as farm-to-table, with lackluster mixologists vainly stealing the mantle. Here, however, the cocktail program is a standout, headed by Sam Levy, former bar manager at three Michelin-starred Restaurant at Meadowood, mixing exotic juices, herbs and foams with artisan spirits with a chef’s creativity. The prices aren’t cheap, but this also isn’t a dive bar serving up off-brand margaritas. We love the idea of equally impressive nonalcoholic drinks for non-imbibers. Our favorite: The Frond or Foe with piquant fennel, cucumber soda, bitter absinthe and vodka.

Fern Bar is at 6780 Depot Street, #120, The Barlow, Sebastopol, (707) 861-9603, fernbar.com. Open Thursday-through Monday from 4:00pm-12:00am, Tuesday-Wednesday closed.

The post Daring Fare at Fern Bar in Sebastopol’s Barlow appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

We love any excuse to escape to the coast — from Marin to Mendocino — and, of course, Sonoma! Whether it is to reward ourselves with a local beer after a long day of hiking or biking, or toast to a special occasion as the sun sets, a cocktail with a coastal view never gets old. Click through the gallery above to discover our favorite coastal bars.

The post From Marin to Mendocino: 8 Ocean-View Bars To Visit Along Highway 1 appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Healdsburg – top destination for fine wine, food and luxury hotels – is gaining ground as the place to go for craft spirits. This week, the town further asserted itself on the spirits scene with the opening of a new tasting room, Young & Yonder Spirits, just steps from the Healdsburg Plaza.

Established in 2013 in Cloverdale, Young & Yonder Spirits is the brainchild of Josh and Sarah Opatz.

Raised in Healdsburg, Josh Opatz discovered his love for artisanal adult beverages through his father, award-winning viticulturist Pete Opatz. He met Sarah, a graphic designer in San Francisco, and the two joined forces (by marriage and career) to pursue a dream of creating high-quality craft spirits. (Josh’s step-brother Shane Harlan is also a partner in Young & Yonder Spirits.)

Located across the street from Healdsburg City Hall, the Young & Yonder 1,000 square-foot space offers tasting flights that include the company’s Armont Vodka, H.O.B.S. Gin, Y/Y Distiller’s Series Lime Vodka, as well as their newest creations – Fellows and Foragers Absinthe and Stave Robber Rye Bourbon. Guests will also be able to sip on special seasonal cocktails and there will be distillery tours, offering a behind-the-scenes look at the hands-on production.

The Opatzes seized the opportunity to open the Young & Yonder space in Healdsburg when zoning laws enabled them to pair their production facility with a tasting room.

“We are so happy to join a community where quality agriculture and artisanal products are the focal point,” said Sarah Opatz, “between the great wine, beer, and craft spirits in the area, both visitors and locals will surely find something to fall in love with.”

Young & Yonder Spirits’ tasting room and distillery is open Thursday through Sunday, 12 p.m. – 6 p.m., 449 Allan Court, Healdsburg, 707-473-8077, youngandyonder.com.

The post New Distillery & Tasting Room Arrives in Healdsburg appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

The Martini is an iconic American cocktail. The origin of the coveted drink is unclear and remains debated, but one theory, supported by many in the Bay Area, is that it was invented by a bartender in Martinez in Contra Costa County. Whether you like yours with gin or vodka, shaken or stirred, check out the gallery above to discover the best bars to sip Martinis in Sonoma County.

The post Cocktail Classic: Best Bars for a Martini in Sonoma appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Sonoma County’s world-class hotels and resorts are more than just a place to rest one’s weary, wine-fogged head, or relax with indulgent spa experiences. In addition to top-notch amenities, many local hotels also feature great bars with craft cocktails, award-winning wine lists and a bite or two to go along with it all. For visitors and locals, the hotel bar can also serve as a place to catch up on work, with free WiFi and plenty of seating. It can be the perfect spot for a nightcap after a day in Wine Country and, for locals, it provides an opportunity to mix and mingle with visitors from around the world. Click through the gallery above to discover five hotel bars to check out right now. 

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Mike Mullins just might be the best Sonoma County chef you’ve never heard of. The young toque is limping around the dining rooms of downtown Santa Rosa’s newest restaurant, Perch and Plow, delivering plates of sweet potato chips and olives with a 500-watt smile. Wearing a FEED Sonoma baseball cap (a produce aggregator for regional farmers), loose chef pants and an apron, it’s a pretty safe bet that none of the diners here know he’s the culinary captain of what may be one of the most promising restaurants in Santa Rosa.

The hitch in his giddyup doesn’t slow him down, and in fact is a source of a bit of embarrassment — a small skateboarding mishap after work last night. He nods toward a table in the back where his parents sit eating lunch, beaming. “Don’t tell my mom,” Mullins laughs, heading for a box filled with mushrooms. “She told me to stop,” he grins impishly, never slowing down as he walks the produce into the walk-in refrigerator, then heads into the wee kitchen of the otherwise expansive restaurant.

By wee kitchen, we mean that the mis en place could fit on a postage stamp and staff is packed in like Tokyo subway riders. A stray elbow or knife blade could have serious consequences. But Mullins takes it all in stride, equating the staff’s movement more to a graceful dance they’re perfecting. A few stepped on toes are the price of entry. Plus, he says, everything’s easy to reach.

Out of the diminutive galley, however, is a lineup of stunning dishes from coconut curried cauliflower with harissa to his grandmother’s fried chicken sandwich, yellowtail ceviche and a frisée salad with pork belly and a soft egg. There’s also an unforgettable burger that’s just become our new favorite. Mullins starts all of his dishes with fresh, local produce and local meats, which give him a head start on deliciousness. Having come up through top-notch restaurants including Michelin-starred Cavallo Point, Petite Syrah and the Kenwood Restaurant along with stints in the canteens of Silicon Valley (Apple, Google) he’s got plenty of culinary chops.

Suffice it to say Mullins’ is easily the best food I’ve ever had from a week-old restaurant. “And it’s just going to get better,” Mullins says.

Expect a mix of small plates, snacks, salads, several raw fish dishes and just a handful of larger plates. With prices ranging from $8 to $22, it’s an affordable luxury for most. Cocktails are equally impressive under Alec Vlastnic (formerly of Spoonbar) who whips up boozy magic with fresh produce, artisan spirits and exotic infusions (bacon fat-washed bourbon, dill foam, strawberry balsamic shrub). At Perch and Plow a $12 cocktail is worth every penny.  A brief beer and wine list seems a little bit tacked-on, but will likely expand. Non-alcoholic choices should be expanded.

The former Christy’s on the Square, an upstairs space overlooking the new Courthouse Square, has always had the potential for greatness, and finally seems to have a team up to the challenge. The interior space has been transformed into a sleek, modern design with a large Bud Snow octopus mural as an eye-catching centerpiece. It’s easily the most beautifully-designed in the downtown area. Large windows open onto the square and skylights fill the restaurant with a soft glow. The handful of bar tables and stools with front row views of the action and warm breezes below are among the most coveted.

As downtown Santa Rosa continues its transformation from quiet county seat to a Wine Country destination, restaurants like Perch and Plow lead the way.

Best Bets

Charred cauliflower ($8): Chunks of fresh multi-colored cauliflower are caramelized in the oven, then placed atop a pool of sweet coconut curry sauce. A spoonful of homemade harissa perks the whole dish up. Bitter, sweet, salty, with a hint of spice, makes it a vegetarian dish that’s required eating for the whole table. After several visits the size seems to have gotten smaller, but the dish has remained a favorite.

Grilled octopus ($12): Perfectly cooked, with a light char on the outside and a soft, meaty bite — no hint of the rubberiness that occurs with less deft chefs. Bean puree seems more a glue to stick the bits to the plates, but lightly dressed arugula enhances the flavor with a bit of bite.

House burger ($16): Baptized in butter, draped in aged Fiscalini cheddar, this burger has reached a higher plane. Made with ground Sonoma County Meat Co.’s Angus on a brioche roll, we won’t even pretend its anything but hard on the arteries, but if you’re going to indulge, do it without regret.

Fried chicken sandwich ($15): “My Texas grandma’s recipe”, says Mullins, presenting the plate. I’ve been tough on fried chicken sandwiches because so many are so lackluster, but this version has light, crispy, flavorful batter that won’t tear up your mouth; wonderfully moist chicken, coleslaw, pickled onion, and house-made aioli (the real deal). You also won’t have to wait an hour for it.

Pork belly ($12): A nest of bitter frisée holds a warm soft cooked egg and crouton-sized bites of pork belly and sunchoke in a tarragon vinaigrette. We’d like to see bigger pieces of sliced pork belly. Either way, watch for fork attacks from your dining partners.

Seared halibut ($21): Sunchokes are the base for a brilliantly cooked piece of halibut — a lighter fish that’s easy-eating even for folks who shy away from seafood. Ahi tuna poke ($12): Tuna tartare has been so badly abused by incompetent chefs trying to put it in ring molds and douse it with too much sesame oil. We like the simpler poke style Mullins executes with a light ponzu sauce that lets the fresh tuna flavor shine.

Beef Carpaccio ($14): Thin slices of raw beef with balsamic vinegar and olive oil. We tend to like our carpaccio as unadulterated as possible, but this version is a bit more approachable for folks who aren’t quite sure they’re ready for raw beef.

Farm Salad ($10): This salad is drop dead simple, but shines because of the luxurious raw ingredients–nothing more than carrots, fresh cauliflower, radish, cucumber and ginger vinaigrette. This is truly what a salad should be.

Needs Work

Desserts aren’t the highest priority at Perch and Plow and are still works in progress. The cheesecake is light, fluffy and tart, but pineapple compote isn’t the ideal match. Chocolate mousse has improved significantly since we first tried it but is still a little dense. Just order another cocktail and call it a day. The kitchen is still in its infancy, and Mullins is training new staff, but little inconsistencies seem to be quickly overcome.

Overall: A strong team headed by GM Jhaun Devere has gotten this restaurant off to a solid start, and Mullins’ talent should make Perch and Plow a long-term downtown jewel.

Hours: Open daily at 11:30a.m., until 9:30p.m. Sunday through Thursday, until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 900 Courthouse Square, Santa Rosa, 707-541-6896, perchandplow.com.

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Quite possibly the most popular “hair of the dog” drink, the Bloody Mary is an American icon. While its origins are debated (various bartenders claim to have invented it in early 20th century New York City), as is its name (Queen Mary or actress Mary Pickford?), there’s no doubt that this spicy libation is a go-to when one needs a “healthy” booze-laden start to the day after long night out. So what’s in a classic Bloody Mary? Vodka, tomato juice, and a combination of other spices, many of which remain secrets to the bartenders who create them. After a lot of hard research, we present to you the best Bloody Marys in Sonoma County. From the town of Sonoma to the coast, click through the gallery above to discover where to find our favorite hangover cure. 

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The Family Coppola announced today that they have secured a craft spirits license and will be launching a spirits line, adding another venture to the wineries, restaurants and hotels already run by the famous filmmaking family. The new brand of “small-batch, house-crafted, classically styled spirits” will be called Great Women Spirits and will include a gin, vodka and brandy.

The spirits, made from spring water from the site of Coppola’s historic Inglenook winery in Napa and vineyard grapes and herbs, are named after three historic women. The gin pays tribute to English mathematician Ada Lovelace, who is considered the world’s first computer programmer. The vodka is named after Marie Walewska, the influential mistress to Napoleon. Finally, the brandy, commemorates Maria Gaetana Agnesi, the first woman to serve as a mathematics professor at a university.

“My mother, sister, wife, daughter, and granddaughters have all inspired me, as have all of the incredible women we celebrate with Great Women Spirits,” said Francis Ford Coppola, Oscar-winning filmmaker and co-proprietor of The Family Coppola brands, which he operates alongside his wife, filmmaker Eleanor Coppola.

Eleanor Coppola adds that the important role women have played and continue to play far surpasses one as simply a source of inspiration, but that this has been overshadowed by the fact that men have been the narrators of historic records: “You know why we don’t hear about famous women in history? Because the history books were written by men.”

Great Women Spirits are available poolside and at RUSTIC at Francis Ford Coppola in Geyserville. The new spirits officially launch October 10, on Ada Lovelace Day, at Cafe Zoetrope in San Francisco. TheFamilyCoppola.com

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