Neighborhood restaurants rarely get the praise they deserve. Tried-and-true workhorses like Windsor’s Grata Italian Eatery aren’t chasing trends with tweezer-plated food, tiny portions and “pick me” chefs. Instead, they’re convivial gathering places for friends and neighbors where the food is reliably good, you can order your “regular” and there’s always someone glad to see you.

Chef Eric Foster and his wife, Christina Keeney, opened Grata — their dream restaurant — just off the Windsor Town Green in the fall of 2020. All around them, restaurants were closing their doors as Foster and Keeney rolled the dice and dove in head first.

“I knew (COVID-19) was a tough situation for everyone, but I thought maybe it’s a window for me to open my restaurant,” said Foster. The former Chinois Bistro, which closed in 2019, was a perfect fit.

Grata quickly found an audience with crowd-pleasing chicken Parmesan ($24), spicy shrimp diavolo with Calabrian chiles ($28) and warm doughnut holes with Nutella ($11). During the pandemic, Grata’s socially distanced outdoor patio was a popular gathering place, and steady takeout business helped keep the doors open.

“In 2020, people were freaking out and we were all turned upside down. So we decided to do old-school comfort food — the classics with big portions and big family platters,” said Foster, a former Stark Reality Restaurants chef.

In the four years since opening, he’s refined his well-executed nonna-style recipes, adding a few cheffy tweaks, but mostly leaving the fan-favorites alone. Standards like gnudi (ricotta dumplings) get seasonal updates with of-the-moment ingredients, as do salads and weekly specials. Asparagus and fresh peas dotted several dishes on a spring visit, while fall brings squashes and Brussels sprouts.

“A chef told me that your best food is going to be for your family and loved ones, so cook for everyone in the restaurant like it’s your mother,” said Foster. And eating at Grata certainly feels like home.

Fun Fact

Foster’s impossibly creamy polenta is so good that it’s permanently filed in my brain as “oh my god good.” Sadly, it’s not a regular menu item any longer, but does show up on specials. If you see it, order it.

The Food

Favorites include the Grata Burrata ($15) with lemon honey and sweety drop peppers; grilled octopus puttanesca ($18) that’s impossibly tender; and creamy cacio e pepe ($21) with salty Pecorino cheese and pepper. Short rib lasagna ($29) was an emotional experience, with soft layers of braised beef, bechamel and a puddle of pink vodka sauce. Save room for cocoa-dusted, raspberry-filled doughnut puffs on a bed of whipped cream ($12) or the Nutella zeppoli ($12).

The Tab

You can go big with a $44 hangar steak or make a dinner of two appetizers for under $30. Cacio e pepe ($21) can be glammed up with prosciutto ($5), truffle oil ($3), sausage ($3) or greens ($3) if you’re feeling fancy. Our $170 bill (before tip) included six dishes, dessert and two Aperol spritzes.

The Deals

Meatball Madness (offered Monday through Wednesday) includes a glass of house wine, two housemade meatballs, a choice of pasta and housemade sauce (pesto, marinara or creamy vodka) for $19. Focaccia pizza ($6) is a happy hour secret menu item (4-6 p.m. Monday through Friday).

The Vibe

Neighborhoody without forced conviviality — Foster and his staff are truly delighted to see you. A date-night cocktail dress is as appropriate as jeans and a T-shirt, and the patrons are mostly local. Comfy banquettes throughout the L-shaped dining room help dampen some of the noise, but things can get loud near large groups. Insiders know to head to quieter tables at the back of the restaurant. The outdoor patio is particularly enjoyable in the summer and early fall.

The Service

Good restaurants attract good staff and it’s clear the young, well-trained servers at Grata enjoy their jobs. Being greeted at the door by a host shows polish, while engaged waitstaff keep the meal humming along. A dedicated bartender means you won’t be waiting all night for that Aperol spritz. Four stars.

The Spot

Open from 4-9 p.m. daily. Reservations suggested but not required. 186 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 707-620-0508, grataitalianeatery.toast.site

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

The post Grata Is Sonoma County’s Best-Kept Secret for Italian Comfort Food appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

An influx of Italian settlers in the 19th century brought not only their winemaking skills but also their culinary traditions to Sonoma County. Unsurprisingly, some of our oldest restaurants (a few still in operation under second, third or even fourth generations) have kept family recipes as the backbone of their operations.

Newer takes on Italian cuisine often mix in California touches or focus on specific regions of Italy — from Milan to Sicily. With so much diversity in Italian cuisine alone, we’ve reached out to readers on our Facebook and Instagram to garner locals’ favorites in the county.

Scroll on below to find the best Italian restaurants in Sonoma County, starting with our dining editor’s top picks and followed by local faves. Mangia bene!

Our Dining Editor’s Top Picks

Grata Italian Eatery

This charming, chef-run restaurant offers modern takes on classic Italian dishes. Gnudi alla vodka, risotto and cacio e pepe are favorite dishes. Open for lunch, dinner and cocktails.

186 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 707-620-0508, gratawindsor.com

Stella

While pasta plays a starring role at Stella — which takes a deep dive into lesser-known Italian regional shapes like Roman tonnarelli (spaghetti’s chunkier cousin), Florentine creste di gallo (ruffled rooster’s crest) and rigatoncini (a tiny tube) — its wood-fired grill steals the show. Whole grilled dourade (sea bream fish), lamb ribs, mushrooms and soft Scamorza cheese get the smoky flavor and gentle char unique to live fire cooking.

9049 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-801-8043, stellakenwood.com

Golden Bear Station

This restaurant from the owners of Sonoma’s Animo is an homage to Italy. Mostly. While the menu leans heavily on gourmet pizzas and pasta, it also includes dishes like tuna crudo, whole lamb saddle and Asian-inspired pork chop in dashi broth. Pizzas are a highlight, perfectly cooked without the bitter notes of char, and the pastas are equally impressive.

8445 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, goldenbearstation.com

Campanella

An unapologetic “red sauce joint” that channels the red-and-white-checkered tablecloth, candles in the Chianti bottle, garlic-scented family trattorias that are the lifeblood of Italian American neighborhoods along the Atlantic Seaboard. The mix of old-world and new-world flavors speaks to the 19th-century migration of Italians (primarily from Southern Italy and Sicily) to New York. Garlic knots, chicken parm pizza, steamed clams with linguini and cheesecake are all standouts.

7365 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-910-3030, campanellasoco.com

Portico

Paolo Pedrinazzi and his wife, Kathleen Escamilla, are the pasta whisperers of  Sebastopol. Their homey cafe has all the charm of nonna’s kitchen as Escamilla scurries between tables, dropping plates of cacio e pepe, risotto and fresh pappardelle pasta with saffron cream to customers. And, of course, the 12-layer lasagna. Don’t miss the Bolognese and fresh tiramisu made daily.

110 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136, porticosocialfood.com

L’Oro Di Napoli

Italian chef, Italian ingredients, Italian oven, Italian pizza. The most authentic Neapolitan pizza in Sonoma County goes from dough to done in seconds thanks to a super-heated woodfired oven. The housemade lasagna is unbelievably good. L’Oro Di Napoli opened a second location in Petaluma in February 2025, offering an expanded menu but keeping its legendary lasagna a Santa Rosa-only specialty.

629 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-541-6394; 208 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-981-7175, lorodinapolisantarosa.com

Cafe Citti

This popular Kenwood restaurant relocated to Santa Rosa and continues to serve some of the best pizza, pasta and sauces around. We love their polenta with creamy porcini mushroom sauce. Dine on the restaurant’s covered and heated back patio, or pick up for an Italian meal at home.

2792 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-523-2690, cafecitti.com

Ca’Bianca

A Victorian home sets the stage for pan-Italian cuisine (from Milan to Sicily). The food always impresses with its restrained simplicity (no gloopy sauces or overwrought pastas) and graceful presentation. Great for impressing parents, dates or coworkers.

835 Second St., Santa Rosa, 707-542-5800, cabianca.com

Canevari’s Deli

The tiny ravioli factory founded in 1929 still sells freshly made ravioli (the original recipe) but has expanded into a popular Italian deli under current owner Lou Chambrone (formerly of Sweet Lou’s in Cotati). Chambrone has upped Canevari’s game with fat Italian-style subs, his recipes for lasagna, creamy tiramisu, polenta and dozens of other dishes.

695 Lewis St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-6941, canevarisdeli.com

Cucina Paradiso

Every pasta is a winner at this classy longtime Petaluma restaurant, but our favorite is the housemade ravioli, filled with roasted duck in sun-dried tomato, pine nut and basil sauce.

114 Petaluma Blvd N., Petaluma, 707-782-1130, cucinaparadisopetaluma.com

Canneti Roadhouse Italiana

This under-the-radar trattoria serves hearty Tuscan dishes from Italian transplant Francesco Torre, who takes pride in the authenticity of his frequently changing dishes with local ingredients.

6675 Front St., Forestville, 707-887-2232, cannetiroadhouse.com

Catelli’s

Lasagna with paper-thin layers of pasta and a tried-and-true meat sauce is a signature dish worth the trip north. Chef Domenica Catelli is one of Sonoma County’s bright lights, committed to using the best local ingredients. Don’t miss the burger or chicken parm.

21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-7142, mycatellis.com

Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria

You’ll swear you’re in Italy at this temple of charcuterie, woodfired pizza and classic Italian entrees, including oxtail ragu with pappardelle, braised beef tripe alla Fiorentina and spaghetti with pork cheek ragu. The cheeky hanging laundry lining the walkway to the back patio completes the experience.

21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com

Reader Picks

Riviera Ristorante

Italian classics like spaghetti Puttanesca and veal piccata impress local diners at this neighborhood favorite. Creamy gnocchi Riviera never disappoints.

“Riviera is my favorite. Authentic, diverse and delicious menu,” said Jed Spencer on Facebook. “The lamb ravioli is outstanding. Fresh bread and olive tapenade is a real treat, even when you order to-go! It’s a family-run restaurant, so you know you’re getting great service. Everyone is very friendly and after chatting with the owner I felt like I had a better knowledge of Italy and its food. If you’re making a list, they MUST be on it!”

75 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, 707- 579-2682, rivieraristorante.net

Volpi’s Ristorante & Bar

Volpi’s in Petaluma dates back nearly 100 years, existing as a grocer and speakeasy before becoming a restaurant in 1992. Find Italian-American classics like spaghetti and meatballs, eggplant parmigiana and veal marsala.

“Love the old speakeasy and great family style food,” said Amanda Bolla of Volpi’s on Facebook.

124 Washington St., Petaluma, 707-762-2371, volpisristorante.com

Baci Cafe & Wine Bar

Plenty of Healdsburg locals say this is a must-visit spot often overlooked by tourists, with elevated Italian dishes from chef-owner Shari Sarabi. The bolognese sauce is made with Kobe beef, veal and pork ribs for an extra luscious dish.

“Love the food, the vibe, the owners and staff, and the wine list,” said Paula Radell of Baci on Facebook. “We eat there so often we have a designated table for two. It never disappoints.”

336 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-8111, bacicafeandwinebar.com

Della Santina

This Sonoma restaurant serves authentic northern Italian cuisine with pastas, breads, soups and fish referred to as “Tuscan Soul Food.”

“Della Santinas in Sonoma (is) the very best,” said Lorraine Cheli on Facebook.

133 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-935-0576, dellasantinas.com

Cibo Rustico

This family-friendly cafe serves less frequently seen dishes, including roasted zucchini flowers and fava beans, along with two types of ravioli, cannelloni and spaghetti. It is one of the few places to get Nonna Zeppole (beignet-style doughnuts). The wine list includes some of the owners’ Italian-style D’Argenzio wines.

“Cibos, owner treats you amazingly and might even pour you a little complimentary glass of his favorite wine, which he bottles from his barrelhouse,” said Adam Turréy on Facebook.

1305 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-623-9906, ciborustico.com

LoCoco’s Cucina Rustica

This cozy Italian trattoria is always packed with fans of their traditional pasta dishes (pappardelle with wild boar sausage, linguine with clams), shrimp scampi and veal saltimbocca. Homemade cannoli is a must-try.

117 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-523-2227, lococos.net

Dinucci’s Restaurant

This checkered-tablecloth, family-style Italian has been around for generations. Dinners include antipasti, sourdough bread, minestrone and salads. Choose from dishes like classic spaghetti, fettuccini, chicken Parmigiana and cannelloni crepes. It’s a good deal for a whole lot of food.

“@dinuccis for sure!! Everything is delicious. Especially the homemade minestrone 😋” said @alexis_starkey_ on Instagram.

14485 Valley Ford Road, Valley Ford, 707-876-3260, dinuccisrestaurantandbar.com

Caffe Giostra

This strip mall Italian spot impresses with dishes like crab ravioli, calamari dore, house gnocchi and a divine torta di cioccolata (chocolate cake) — plus an attentive waitstaff.

“Caffe Giostra in Petaluma because the food is consistently delicious and the owners and staff are so welcoming,” said David Hartranft about Caffe Giostra on Facebook.

1390 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-664-9441

Risibisi

Housemade gnocchi with braised wild boar is a specialty at this Petaluma restaurant. Risotto is also a favorite.

“Risibisi Restaurant in Petaluma,” Keller Estate nominated on Facebook. “Great food and service.”

154 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-766-7600, risibisirestaurant.com

Mamma Taninos

This locals’ favorite has a brief but focused menu with weekly specials from Sicilian-born chef Gaetano Patrinostro.

“[Mamma] Taninos in Sonoma. The best! A close second is Della’s just off the Plaza,” said Leslie Leutbecher on Facebook.

500 W. Napa St., Suite 512, Sonoma, 707-933-8826, mammataninos.com

Negri’s Italian Dinners & Joe’s Bar

Family-run since 1943, this old-school Italian eatery is known for its homemade ravioli. The updated Joe’s Bar and Lounge features all the traditional Negri’s favorites Friday through Sunday, including their famous fried chicken, burgers, pizza and modern takes on classic cocktails.

“Gotta go with Negri’s Italian Dinners & Joe’s Bar in Occidental,” said Donna Jean Say on Facebook. “Authentic Italian food and great hometown people. Can’t get those raviolis anywhere else and the desserts, homemade by the Negri ladies, are to die for.”

3700 Bohemian Highway, Occidental, 707-874-0301, negrisrestaurant.com

Piacére Ristorante Italiano

Another local’s favorite and one of only a few restaurants in this charming north county town. You’ll find a long lineup of pasta, parmigiana, seafood, veal dishes and housemade tiramisu.

“Family-run, amazing steak specials, calamari dori, real Italian veal, fresh tiramisu made daily, good value prices,” said Tina Castelli of Piacére on Facebook.

504 N. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-894-0885, piacereristorante.com

Art’s Place

Founded by the late Art Ibleto, Sonoma County’s “Pasta King,” Art’s Place remains family-owned and has affordable Italian classics. The chicken marsala, fettuccini Alfredo and shrimp scampi get top reviews.

“Never had a bad meal,” said Cheryl Cook about Art’s Place on Facebook. “Friendly staff, good bar.”

563 Rohnert Park Expressway, Rohnert Park, 707-588-2787, artsplacerp.weebly.com

Honorable Mentions

Sugo Trattoria

This intimate Italian spot in Petaluma’s theater district offers an impressive lineup of bruschetta along with fan favorites like butternut squash risotto, pistachio-crusted salmon and a creamy pesto verdura.

5 Petaluma Blvd. S., Suite B, Petaluma, 707-782-9298, sugotrattoria.com

Trattoria Roma

This longtime family restaurant features an extensive menu of traditional Italian fare with hearty pastas, piccata, scallopini and saltimbocca.

140 Second St., Petaluma, 707-981-7807, trattoriaromapetaluma.com

Alfredo’s Italian Restaurant

Tucked away in east Petaluma’s Washington Square shopping center, Alfredo’s offers traditional Italian dishes at reasonable prices for lunch and dinner. Spaghetti Bolognese and housemade mushroom ravioli are standout dinner entrees. Get the tiramisu or chocolate gelato for dessert.

1426 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 707-782-0500, alfredoitlaliantogo.com

Tony’s of North Beach

Graton Casino trattoria fronted by world-famous pizzaiolo Tony Gemignani offers five styles of pizza: woodfired Neapolitan and California-style; brick-oven Italian and American standards, as well as thick-crust Sicilian; and stone-oven New York and New Haven-style pizzas.

288 Golf Course Drive W., Rohnert Park, 707-588-7741, gratonresortcasino.com

Pizzando

This little pizzeria in downtown Healdsburg specializes in Napolitana and Romana-style pizzas, and also offers seasonal bites, paninis, housemade pastas and organic soft-serve ice cream.

301 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-922-5233, pizzandohealdsburg.com

Rustic

Francis Ford Coppola’s winery-based Italian restaurant features the film director’s favorite dishes in an airy, open dining room and offers sweeping views from the patio.

300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707-857-1445, francisfordcoppolawinery.com

Maci Martell contributed to this story.

The post The Best Italian Restaurants in Sonoma County appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Sonoma County was built on red wine and ravioli.

As the chosen home of thousands of Italian immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the simple food and wine of their homeland became the basis for a flourishing economy, and family names like Bacigalupi, Bastoni, Pedroncelli, Seghesio, Traverso and Martinelli have continued to power that engine.

The Canevaris are part of that local history, selling their cheese and meat-filled ravioli to Mary’s Pizza Shack and nearly every supermarket from San Francisco to the Oregon border — or so the story goes.

The tiny ravioli factory founded in 1929 by Atillio Canevari and later run by his son, Edwin, still sells freshly made ravioli (the original recipe) but has expanded into a popular Italian deli under current owner Lou Chambrone (formerly of Sweet Lou’s in Cotati).

A hale and hearty paisan, Chambrone has upped Canevari’s game with fat Italian-style subs, his recipes for lasagna, creamy tiramisu, polenta and dozens of other dishes that show up as daily specials on the handwritten signs outside the deli.

And it’s those idiosyncratic signs with their wobbly handwriting that Chambrone credits for his ongoing success. The deli sits on Lewis Road, a busy thoroughfare extending from Steele Lane to a nearby residential area.

“People would come by and say they’ve driven by here for 10 years and never stopped. It just catches people’s eyes,” he said. Now, they come in out of curiosity or rumbling tummies on their way home from work to see the specials, he added.

The signs are so iconic that a friend made a computer font out of his handwriting — you’ll see it on half a dozen or more signs inside the deli. But Chambrone still likes to write the signs outside himself.

While talking with Chambrone, a line of DoorDash drivers and catering pickups start extending toward the counter. “It’s raining. People are ordering in,” he said. The line continues to grow until it’s nearly out the door.

Excusing himself and heading to the prep area, he dives in to help his small staff.

“I’ll be right with you all. Now, who’s next?”

Fun fact

Chambrone’s son, Dominic Ciambrone, creates bespoke sneakers and footwear for celebrities that start at $5,000. He created a special pair of kicks with red checkered cloth, green trim and tiny ravioli on the laces inspired by Canevari’s. You can see them at the deli.

The vibe

Chambrone and his son Dominic recently renovated the Santa Rosa deli, giving it a warm and inviting feel while keeping the historic charm. The affable Chambrone loves collaborating with other local restaurants and most recently did a special “Cubano Cannelloni” with Carlos Mojica of Guiso Latin Fusion.

The food

Everyone has a favorite here — from the meaty Italian sub, filled with salami, mortadella, capicola, provolone and tangy muffuletta spread, to the frozen ravioli with homemade sauce, fresh cannoli, lasagna, creamy polenta, chop salad and tiramisu. Everything is made fresh and Chambrone champions local purveyors, including Zoe’s Meats, Imwalle Gardens and Franco-American bread.

The recipes are all Chambrone’s, who has spent a lifetime in the restaurant business. “The menu is too long, but it all sells,” he said. “If I take something off, people complain.”

The perks

Though you can sit at one of several tables inside, most of Canevari’s menu is prepared to go. They’ve recently added their menu to DoorDash and Grubhub to make stuffing your face with a gabagool sub even easier.

The tab

Sandwiches range from $14 to $17; Lou’s Chop Salad is $12; and spaghetti, ravioli or creamy mushroom polenta plates are $12 to $13.

The deals

Take and bake Family Platters serve a small crowd and can include ravioli, tri-tip, mesquite chicken, a loaf of garlic bread and sauce. Prices range from $47 to $75.

The service

The staff makes sandwiches lickety-split, even when there’s a line. Chambrone is usually somewhere in the mix: making sandwiches, answering the phone, ringing up customers or entertaining regulars.

The spot

695 Lewis St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-6941, canevarisdeli.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

The post Sonoma’s Italian History Is in Every Bite of Canevari’s Ravioli appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

It’s hard to know whether I’m delighted or horrified by the baseball bat-sized pepper grinder headed toward my table. Death by Spice would be such an embarrassing obituary. But as our server approaches with this cannon of seasoning, I also notice slices of mortadella flapping on a tiny trapeze headed toward a neighboring table from the corner of my eye.

I’m in a bad Fellini movie, or Petaluma’s newest Italian hot spot, L’Oro di Napoli, is as much theater as it is a restaurant.

Located in downtown Petaluma’s historic commercial district, the 8,000-square-foot building at 208 Petaluma Blvd. North is a worthy backdrop. Built in 1870, the exposed brick walls, soaring ceilings and sky-high windows set the stage for a tableau of Neapolitan life, complete with shuttered “windows” overlooking the dining room and bar, and a faux balcony above the dining room similar to the Santa Rosa restaurant. Cheeky laundry lines full of clothes — like the ones decorating the Fourth Street restaurant — will be installed soon.

“We want you to feel like you’re in Italy when you’re here,” said co-owner Domenico De Angelis in thickly accented English. A native of Naples, he’s imported not only the feel of his hometown but authentic Italian ingredients and a Southern Italian staff mostly made of friends from home. When you’re at De Angelis’ restaurant, which he owns with Roberto Sbaraglia, you’re truly part of a family.

That includes plenty of intentional cacophony that the owners say is part of the fun. When I asked about the rising decibel level as the night progressed — Americans tend to be sensitive about that kind of thing — the answer was that Naples can be loud and chaotic, and they wanted to recreate that atmosphere.

An expanded space, expanded menu

More than double the size of the flagship Neapolitan-style pizzeria and trattoria in Santa Rosa, the second outpost of L’Oro di Napoli opened in early March at the former Thai Issan.

Santa Rosans have been flocking to the original L’Oro di Napoli on Fourth Street since it opened in 2022. The thin-bottom, leopard-spotted Neapolitan-style pizzas are the real deal, using imported ingredients and De Angelis’ pizzaiolo skills. The six-layer lasagna is stuffed with beef Bolognese, béchamel, tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese. It’s the best nonna-style lasagna you’ll ever eat.

In Petaluma, not only is the space larger, but so is the menu. Offerings include a long list of antipasti, such as fried calamari, Brussels sprouts with pecorino, salads and most importantly, fresh pasta, plus new entrées like zucchini Parmesan and branzino with a lemon-wine sauce. The one thing you won’t find is the legendary lasagna — De Angelis wants to keep that a Santa Rosa specialty.

Despite the many little surprise and delightful moments at L’Oro di Napoli, the food never takes a back seat. De Angelis and his crew know how to make the comforting, approachable Southern Italian cuisine of their ancestors. The Pompeii-style wood-fired oven, imported from Naples, would be recognizable to ancestors from millennia past, cooking the same style of bread and round dough unearthed by archaeologists.

L’Oro di Napoli is a joy to experience, from the moment you walk in the doors to your last bite of tiramisu. Enjoy the show.

Best Bets

Charcuterie board, $27: You’ve never seen a meat and cheese board like this. Slices of mortadella hang like trapeze artists on a line stretched between two dowels with cheese wedges below, offering a safety net if anything falls. You have to appreciate the sheer silliness of it all. Though slightly over-the-top, when was the last time your food did a circus act?

Frittatina, $16: Think mozzarella stick meets arancini ball. Bucatini pasta with béchamel sauce, peas and Bolognese ragu is rolled into a patty, breaded and fried — a perfect bar snack with a Hugo spritz cocktail.

Homemade bread, $5: Fresh, crusty bread served with chimichurri and balsamic butter. It’s wonderful, but keep a couple of slices to sop up sauce.

Caprese con burrata, $15: A fist-sized ball of soft mozzarella stuffed with cream is never a bad choice. This version doesn’t need much gussying up, served with San Marzano tomatoes, fresh basil and balsamic. You’ll be spoiled for any other version.

Pappardelle al tartufo, $28: Black truffle cream sauce, sausage and mushrooms cling to wide strips of fresh pasta that are both silky and toothy.

Pistachio pizza, $25: Neapolitan-style wood-fired pizzas are the soul of L’Oro di Napoli. You can’t go wrong with any variation, from simple Margherita to the elaborate patate e porchetta with roasted pork and potatoes, plus smoked and pecorino cheese. I fell in love with the pistachio pizza, topped with smoked cheese, pistachio pesto, mortadella, provolone cream and basil. I shared a nearly identical pizza with friends in Split, Croatia, on one of the happiest days of my life — so I may be a little biased.

Tiramisu, $12: This classic Italian dessert made with lady fingers, mascarpone, chocolate and espresso liqueur isn’t the best version I’ve ever had, but it’s undoubtedly the most entertaining. Served in a moka pot — the iconic octagonal espresso maker on every Italian stove — it’s a delightful surprise for the end of a meal.

L’Oro di Napoli is at 208 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-981-7175, lorodinapolica.com. Open from 4:30 to 9 p.m. Monday, Wednesday and Thursday; noon to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and noon to 8 p.m. Sunday. Closed Tuesdays.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

The post Theatrics Don’t Take Away From the Food at Petaluma’s New L’Oro Di Napoli appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Santa Rosa’s L’Oro di Napoli will officially open its 8,000-square-foot Petaluma restaurant Wednesday, Feb. 19, featuring a new menu, bar and impressive Italian wood-fired pizza oven. But one thing will be missing — the lasagna.

“No lasagna here,” said co-owner Domenico De Angelis, whose mile-high lasagna filled with layers of fresh pasta, Bolognese, béchamel, tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese is a bestseller at the Santa Rosa location and pushed the Fourth Street restaurant to the top of my Italian dining “best of” list.

De Angelis said he wants to keep the lasagna a Santa Rosa-only dish. But Petaluma will also have unique offerings, including veal Milanese, crispy arancini, whole Branzino and zucchini Parmesan. It also will serve wood-fired pizzas, like the Santa Rosa location.

Unlike the pocket-sized kitchen in Santa Rosa, the lavish new kitchen build-out in Petaluma will allow L’Oro di Napoli to expand its Neapolitan-influenced menu.

The 208 Petaluma Boulevard North restaurant (formerly Thai Issan) also has separate bar and restaurant seating, a pizza dough-rising room, a private dining area and the charming Neapolitan “windows” and faux balcony overlooking the dining room similar to the Santa Rosa restaurant.

“We want you to feel like you’re in Italy when you’re here,” said De Angelis.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

The post L’Oro di Napoli Opening in Petaluma This Week appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Petalumans will soon get a taste of L’Oro di Napoli’s Neapolitan pizza and mile-high lasagna that have impressed Santa Rosans and pushed the restaurant to the top of Italian dining “best of” lists.

L’Oro di Napoli pizzaiolo Domenico De Angelis and co-owner Roberto Sbaraglia will host an opening party with food and music from 5 to 8 p.m. Monday, Feb. 17, at 208 Petaluma Blvd. North. The location was previously home to Lemongrass Thai restaurant.

The new restaurant will have a Neapolitan wood-fired oven for pizza-making but the larger location will also have an expanded menu with “a variety of primi, secondi piatti and fritti inspired by Campania cuisine,” according to De Angelis.

Stay tuned for the official opening details.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

The post L’Oro di Napoli’s Second Location Opening Soon in Petaluma appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

As Negri’s prepares to celebrate its 75th birthday, I have one question: why isn’t this Occidental restaurant busier? Often when I stop in, the bar is crowded, but the dining room has plenty of empty seats among its 20 or so tables.

Perhaps it’s because Occidental is a tiny, rural town, off the average diner’s routes. Or perhaps because indeed, the place is old— two sets of friends I invited to join me for dinner there recently declined, with comments about the age equaling questionable quality.

Well, then. Aged wines are supposed to be better, right? I myself – ahem -am getting older, so certainly improving, I can only hope. And, as a popularly cited report from Cornell Hospitality Quarterly notes, around 60 percent of new restaurants fail within the first year, and nearly 80 percent shutter before their fifth anniversary.

So high five to the family-owned Negri’s, which has been faithfully serving delicious, remarkable value Italian food since Joe and Theresa Negri opened it on Bohemian Highway in 1943.

Now dubbed Negri’s Italian Dinners & Joe’s Bar to better showcase the attached lounge and bar, the restaurant has gotten some updates recently. Most dishes served are traditional family recipes, but several more modern dishes are now on offer, like a Hail the Kale salad dotted with sunflower seeds, feta cheese, cherry tomato and lemon vinaigrette ($), and the option for gluten-free pasta.

Yet as I dug into a steaming hot bowl of Nonni’s ravioli, I was thinking I’m happy way back in the ’40s. The fluted-edge pasta is housemade, generously overstuffed with moist crumbly beef and pork, nicely bitter bits of Swiss chard, fresh herbs and Parmesan. I chose the chunky, well-seasoned Bolognese, among the other marinara, Alfredo or pesto options.

It tasted even better, perhaps, because of the quaint setting. All the cozy touches are there: red and white checked tablecloths, ball lamps painted in Italian flag colors of red, white and green, and, decorating some tables, wax-dripped Chianti bottles. Someone takes loving care of this elderly lady — she is sparkling clean, freshly painted, and this time of year, she boasts lots of Easter-theme knickknacks for a personal touch.

Then, there’s the thoughtful pricing. Negri’s bills itself as family style dining, meaning, in this case, that while entrees are per-person, full dinners include shareable servings of minestrone soup, a mixed green salad, antipasto nibbles of marinated peppers, veggies, herbed chickpeas and red beans, a few slices of salami, French bread and butter. Some entrées include a few ravioli, too.

But you can also order an entrée solo, bringing just the sides that usually include fries, mashed potatoes or sautéed vegetables. Some of the entrées are served in the bar, too, for an even lower price. And then, there was one afternoon I stopped in on the way back from an area appointment, craving more of those ravioli. The barkeep asked how many people I was serving, I told her two, and she cheerfully suggested I get an off-menu quart portion, since it would give me a lot more pasta for the money.

Follow along, now: Nonni’s ravioli as a full dinner is $23, as a dining room entrée it’s $16, as a bar entrée it’s $14, and as a to-go quart, it’s $15. I love the flexibility.

All the classics are very well executed. It’s hard to resist the burrata appetizer, boasting a large round of creamy rich Di Stefano cheese presented with olives, arugula, cherry tomatoes and toasted olive oil crostini ($13). Polenta and meatballs are perfectly textured, flavorful and smothered in Bolognese with a peppery shock of arugula and sprinkle of shaved Parmesan ($12). And garlic bread is as crunchy-crust toasted, soft interior and buttery breath-destroying as it should be (quarter loaf $6, half loaf $9, full loaf $14).

As for quality, consider that the family sources fruits, vegetables and herbs from its own Negri Ranch two miles from the restaurant, uses local producers like Santa Rosa Meat & Poultry and North Coast Fisheries and has a room on-site dedicated to making fresh pasta. The cooks make the sauces and dressings from scratch, bread comes from a Sebastopol bakery, and desserts include homemade treats like the tasty apple fritters ($5), cut into two large fruit rings, battered and deep fried crisp with a shower of powdered sugar.

Consequently, this is mama’s baked lasagna (if you have a good cook as a mama), in a huge slab of beef, sausage, mushroom, onion, gooey mozzarella and ricotta cheese ($13/$17/$24). And my seafood pasta sported five sweet, garlic butter prawns amid the silky tangle of angel hair dressed in white wine and cream ($20/$27).

I was pleased with the chicken Parmesan, too, for the monster portion of boneless chicken breast, a virtual mantle of melting mozzarella, and Parmesan ($19/$26). I only wished for more marinara sauce, and a few leaves of fresh basil, to flavor-boost the bird and mix in with the angel hair pasta bed.

On another visit, pizza and drinks took center stage, enjoyed in the lounge with its curved wood bar, antique black-and-white photos, sturdy stone fireplace, and ample windows. The 12-inch pies start with good chewy crust then build up to a variety of toppings like Occidental’s own Panizzera Meat Co. spicy Italian sausage, egg or mushrooms. The Capperi is a particularly savory model, spread with tomato sauce and capped in lots of prosciutto, zingy fried capers, huge dollops of burrata anchoring every slice, and a flurry of crisp arugula ($17).

About five years ago, Joe and Theresa Negri’s great-granddaughter, Amanda Negri, introduced a craft cocktail program. It brings sips like The Solstice, a sweet-sharp quaff of Hangar 1 Buddha’s Hand vodka, ginger, cranberry, lemon and sparkling water ($10), to go alongside a short but well-selected wine and beer list focusing on local labels such as Russian River Valley County Line Zinfandel ($45) or Healdsburg Racer 5 IPA ($5).

As I muse over the sometimes-empty tables at this friendly restaurant, I think, even the soup and salad are better than they have to be. The greens are a mix of fresh leaf lettuces, purple cabbage and carrots dressed in my choice of chunky blue cheese vinaigrette, while the soup — ladled out of a tureen for a group — is excellent, thick with housemade flat noodles, carrots, celery, potatoes and beans in a deeply tomato-y broth.

Sure, there are lots of new places with fancier settings and much more inventive menus. But for this lovely blast-of-the-past, I say, some things should never go out of style.

The post Looking for Authentic Italian Food in Sonoma County? Here’s Your Spot appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

From new to well-aged, where to eat right now in Sonoma County

Delhi Belly Indian Bistro

It was a bold move to name this restaurant after a term sometimes used for an exotic travelers’ affliction (to put it gently). But the food and vibe here are nothing but delightful. Focused heavily on Northern Indian cuisine, Dehli Belly’s menu has a familiar lineup including palak paneer, daal and naan, and tandoori and tikka masala for traditionalists. But the real buzz is about the less-familiar dishes: roti and paratha (wheat breads), hariyali mali kofta (a cheese dumpling with spinach and vegetables in tomato sauce) and butter chicken. Often confused with tikka masala, butter chicken has a little more spice, a little less cream and a lot more butter. It’s tikka masala’s classier cousin.

520 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-343-1003, visit on Facebook

Hana Japanese Restaurant

For 25 years, this unassuming little sushi restaurant has served the North Bay’s most authentic Japanese meals. Working with fish flown in weekly from Toyko’s famed Tsukiji market, chef and owner Ken Tominaga is something of a sushi legend, despite the rather cramped quarters his restaurant had long occupied in Rohnert Park. Tominaga, however, recently doubled the space, adding a casual sake bar that serves some of the region’s finest sakes from throughout Japan. Hana is one of the few restaurants with its own sake sommelier, and flights of the rice wine are popular. Maybe the highest praise is that this is a trusted source for fresh uni (sea urchin) and ankimo (steamed monkfish liver), delicacies that can go very wrong in untrained hands.

101 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park, 707-586-0270, hanajapanese.com

Walter Hansel Wine & Bistro

The menu is Wine Country French featuring de Gaulle-era classics such as Coquilles St. Jacques (scallops with a white-wine truffle cream sauce, naughtier than a night at the Moulin Rouge); Julia Child-worthy boeuf Bourguignon, lobster bisque en croute, and a proper tarte tatin (apples in a flaky crust) with homemade caramel. Prices are steep, but the large wine selection (including many Walter Hansel wines) is impressive. Service is spot-on at this restaurant. It’s perfect for a romantic splurge.

3535 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa, 707-546-6462, walterhanselbistro.com

Guiso Latin Fusion

Caribbean meets Salvadoran at this Healdsburg jewel box. The tiny kitchen at the former Ravenous can be slow, but the food is made with love. Jamaican jerk chicken with mango and pineapple salsa makes for tasty tacos; the Salvadoran take on the Cubano sandwich offers pulled pork marinated in citrus, with Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard. Heartier fare includes pescado con coco (fish sautéed with coconut) and slow-braised pork ribs. Don’t miss the pupusas stuffed with pork, chicken or vegetables and topped with elotitos — sliced pieces of corn roasted in jerk, butter and garlic. Save room for the quesadillita con helado, a mashup of rice and cheese bread with vanilla ice cream and hibiscus sauce.

117 North St., Healdsburg, 707-431-1302, guisolatinfusion.com

Soban Korean Cuisine

A sizzling pot of rice that continues to cook while you eat it? That’s bibimbap, a Korean comfort food. Meaning “mixed rice,” bibimbap is so hot you can cook an egg on it. It’s a signature dish at Soban in Petaluma, a recent entrant to the restaurant scene that locals say is as authentic as it gets, with homemade kimchi, pan-fried Korean pancakes, beef and pork bulgogi (marinated meats in a spicy sweet sauce), and the bibimbap made in a sizzling stone pot with pickled vegetables, seafood, kimchi, beef or chicken. Soban Chicken was just as good as a midnight snack as it was right out of the bowl.

255 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-796-3112, sobanpetaluma.com

Bistro 100

Comfort classics with a French twist are the signature of this cozy Petaluma bistro. Everyone knows everyone here, and if they don’t, the bistro tables lend themselves to casual conversation and knowing nods of approval as lusty plates of short ribs arrive. Most of the ingredients (and wine) are sourced from within 20 miles, giving diners a true taste of the county. Best bets include mushroom and truffled bruschetta cream canapés, Sonoma County terrine, and Cabernet-braised short ribs.

140 Second St., Suite 100, Petaluma, 707-981-8228, bistro100petaluma.com

Ca’ Momi Osteria

This “obsessively Italian” Napa newcomer focuses on authentic regional specialties. Travel through Italy with grilled rock octopus with lemon vinaigrette, inspired by Venice’s seafood bounty; imported burrata cheese from Puglia with roasted vegetables and olive oil; and oxtail stew with tomato, rigatoni, soffritto, pine nuts and raisins from the pastoral Lazio region surrounding Rome. Spaghetti is offered only “alla bottarga,” a briny dish that gets a shaving of cured fish roe — a specialty of Sardinia. Certified-authentic Napoletana pizza is cooked for exactly 90 seconds in a 900-degree wood-burning oven, dressed with simple toppings of San Marzano tomatoes, garlic and oregano, or more luxurious porcini mushrooms with white truffle cream and basil.

1141 First St., Napa, 707-224-6664, camomi.com

Basilico Cucina Italiana

This new trattoria comes from the owners of Cucina Paradiso in Petaluma. The menu is very similar, with a nice antipasti plate, exceptional beef tartare, fresh pastas and swoonworthy gnocchi with Gorgonzola-walnut sauce. Even if you’re not a veal fan, it’s worth trying the scaloppine al Marsala — a thin cut of tender veal with porcini mushrooms and Marsala wine sauce. The room can be loud and crowded with locals on weekends, but that speaks to its popularity and approachable dishes.

4776 Sonoma Highway, Santa Rosa, 707-539-0260, basilico-cucina-italiana.com

Sonoma Grille

With a nod to its past as Meritage Oyster Bar and Grill, the menu at this reborn surf and turf restaurant features many of the same dishes fans craved before. That also means a slog of more than 30 items (fewer than the previous menu) from which to choose. From fresh oysters and hefty seafood platters to pasta, roast chicken and steaks, there’s something for every taste. A new kitchen, bar and beer garden bring fresh vigor to this venerable spot.

165 W. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-938-7542, sonomagrilleandbar.com

Canneti Roadhouse Italiana

Marrying his own Tuscan culinary traditions with the best of Sonoma’s farms and fields, chef Francesco Torres has created a menu that’s both rustic and refined, capturing the best of west county’s bounty. In winter, hearty braised boar, local mushrooms and chestnut-flour gnocchi with cauliflower sauce shine. In warmer months, dishes include zucchini and mint over ricotta goat cheese and vegetable sugo with housemade pasta. Canneti boasts one of the most enchanting outdoor patios in Sonoma. Word is now out that this Forestville spot, with its modern interior and chatty bar, is worth the drive.

6675 Front St., Forestville, 707-887-2232, cannetirestaurant.com

The post Where to Eat in Sonoma County: Our Guide to The Best Restaurants appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

From new to well-aged, where to eat right now

Delhi Belly Indian Bistro

It was a bold move to name this restaurant after a term sometimes used for an exotic travelers’ affliction (to put it gently). But the food and vibe here are nothing but delightful. Focused heavily on Northern Indian cuisine, Dehli Belly’s menu has a familiar lineup including palak paneer, daal and naan, and tandoori and tikka masala for traditionalists. But the real buzz is about the less-familiar dishes: roti and paratha (wheat breads), hariyali mali kofta (a cheese dumpling with spinach and vegetables in tomato sauce) and butter chicken. Often confused with tikka masala, butter chicken has a little more spice, a little less cream and a lot more butter. It’s tikka masala’s classier cousin.

520 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-343-1003, visit on Facebook

Hana Japanese Restaurant

For 25 years, this unassuming little sushi restaurant has served the North Bay’s most authentic Japanese meals. Working with fish flown in weekly from Toyko’s famed Tsukiji market, chef and owner Ken Tominaga is something of a sushi legend, despite the rather cramped quarters his restaurant had long occupied in Rohnert Park. Tominaga, however, recently doubled the space, adding a casual sake bar that serves some of the region’s finest sakes from throughout Japan. Hana is one of the few restaurants with its own sake sommelier, and flights of the rice wine are popular. Maybe the highest praise is that this is a trusted source for fresh uni (sea urchin) and ankimo (steamed monkfish liver), delicacies that can go very wrong in untrained hands.

101 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park, 707-586-0270, hanajapanese.com

Walter Hansel Wine & Bistro

The menu is Wine Country French featuring de Gaulle-era classics such as Coquilles St. Jacques (scallops with a white-wine truffle cream sauce, naughtier than a night at the Moulin Rouge); Julia Child-worthy boeuf Bourguignon, lobster bisque en croute, and a proper tarte tatin (apples in a flaky crust) with homemade caramel. Prices are steep, but the large wine selection (including many Walter Hansel wines) is impressive. Service is spot-on at this restaurant. It’s perfect for a romantic splurge.

3535 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa, 707-546-6462, walterhanselbistro.com

Guiso Latin Fusion

Caribbean meets Salvadoran at this Healdsburg jewel box. The tiny kitchen at the former Ravenous can be slow, but the food is made with love. Jamaican jerk chicken with mango and pineapple salsa makes for tasty tacos; the Salvadoran take on the Cubano sandwich offers pulled pork marinated in citrus, with Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard. Heartier fare includes pescado con coco (fish sautéed with coconut) and slow-braised pork ribs. Don’t miss the pupusas stuffed with pork, chicken or vegetables and topped with elotitos — sliced pieces of corn roasted in jerk, butter and garlic. Save room for the quesadillita con helado, a mashup of rice and cheese bread with vanilla ice cream and hibiscus sauce.

117 North St., Healdsburg, 707-431-1302, guisolatinfusion.com

Soban Korean Cuisine

A sizzling pot of rice that continues to cook while you eat it? That’s bibimbap, a Korean comfort food. Meaning “mixed rice,” bibimbap is so hot you can cook an egg on it. It’s a signature dish at Soban in Petaluma, a recent entrant to the restaurant scene that locals say is as authentic as it gets, with homemade kimchi, pan-fried Korean pancakes, beef and pork bulgogi (marinated meats in a spicy sweet sauce), and the bibimbap made in a sizzling stone pot with pickled vegetables, seafood, kimchi, beef or chicken. Soban Chicken was just as good as a midnight snack as it was right out of the bowl.

255 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-796-3112, sobanpetaluma.com

Bistro 100

Comfort classics with a French twist are the signature of this cozy Petaluma bistro. Everyone knows everyone here, and if they don’t, the bistro tables lend themselves to casual conversation and knowing nods of approval as lusty plates of short ribs arrive. Most of the ingredients (and wine) are sourced from within 20 miles, giving diners a true taste of the county. Best bets include mushroom and truffled bruschetta cream canapés, Sonoma County terrine, and Cabernet-braised short ribs.

140 Second St., Suite 100, Petaluma, 707-981-8228, bistro100petaluma.com

Ca’ Momi Osteria

This “obsessively Italian” Napa newcomer focuses on authentic regional specialties. Travel through Italy with grilled rock octopus with lemon vinaigrette, inspired by Venice’s seafood bounty; imported burrata cheese from Puglia with roasted vegetables and olive oil; and oxtail stew with tomato, rigatoni, soffritto, pine nuts and raisins from the pastoral Lazio region surrounding Rome. Spaghetti is offered only “alla bottarga,” a briny dish that gets a shaving of cured fish roe — a specialty of Sardinia. Certified-authentic Napoletana pizza is cooked for exactly 90 seconds in a 900-degree wood-burning oven, dressed with simple toppings of San Marzano tomatoes, garlic and oregano, or more luxurious porcini mushrooms with white truffle cream and basil.

1141 First St., Napa, 707-224-6664, camomi.com

Basilico Cucina Italiana

This new trattoria comes from the owners of Cucina Paradiso in Petaluma. The menu is very similar, with a nice antipasti plate, exceptional beef tartare, fresh pastas and swoonworthy gnocchi with Gorgonzola-walnut sauce. Even if you’re not a veal fan, it’s worth trying the scaloppine al Marsala — a thin cut of tender veal with porcini mushrooms and Marsala wine sauce. The room can be loud and crowded with locals on weekends, but that speaks to its popularity and approachable dishes.

4776 Sonoma Highway, Santa Rosa, 707-539-0260, basilico-cucina-italiana.com

Sonoma Grille

With a nod to its past as Meritage Oyster Bar and Grill, the menu at this reborn surf and turf restaurant features many of the same dishes fans craved before. That also means a slog of more than 30 items (fewer than the previous menu) from which to choose. From fresh oysters and hefty seafood platters to pasta, roast chicken and steaks, there’s something for every taste. A new kitchen, bar and beer garden bring fresh vigor to this venerable spot.

165 W. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-938-7542, sonomagrilleandbar.com

Canneti Roadhouse Italiana

Marrying his own Tuscan culinary traditions with the best of Sonoma’s farms and fields, chef Francesco Torres has created a menu that’s both rustic and refined, capturing the best of west county’s bounty. In winter, hearty braised boar, local mushrooms and chestnut-flour gnocchi with cauliflower sauce shine. In warmer months, dishes include zucchini and mint over ricotta goat cheese and vegetable sugo with housemade pasta. Canneti boasts one of the most enchanting outdoor patios in Sonoma. Word is now out that this Forestville spot, with its modern interior and chatty bar, is worth the drive.

6675 Front St., Forestville, 707-887-2232, cannetirestaurant.com

The post Where to Eat Now in Sonoma County appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.